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    Reflections: Beauty Concepts

Makeup and sheitel tips

For a listing of makeup artists and sheitel stylists, see LookingGood.htm

Note:  If you want to jump right to the makeup tips, skip to the pictures below.

For information on Sheitel construction and maintenance tips, scroll down to

the articles by Aviva Rizel.

Beauty Concepts and Concoctions

Makeup has been around for thousands of years. It is even referred to in Nach

in terms of color used around the eyes.   While it has always been around, it was

not always as easily procured as it is today.  During the eighteenth century,

 both men and women applied makeup made out of wax, which necessitated

screens to shield  them from the direct heat of the fireplace.  Without them, their

faces would have melted, not the effect they aspired to.  The wax filled in scars left by the pox.  Some speculate that the phrase, "Mind your own bee's wax" actually stems from this practice.  To split hairs further, some interpret it as a friendly warning to someone whose wax was imperiled by heat, while others believe it was used as a verbal slap to a woman who stared at another's makeup.  

Beeswax is still a major ingredient in cosmetics today.  Another useful bee product is honey.* For an easy moisture mask at very low cost,  make your own -- out of honey and bananas.  Mash a ripe banana and mix it with 3 tablespoons of honey.  Cover your face (but not your eyes) and leave on for 10 minutes.  Rinse off with warm water.

 During colonial and Victorian times, women would often  concoct their  own lash coloring out of lampblack, burnt cork, or burnt hair curlers and apply "salves" to redden lips.  A Victorian lady, however, would not want to admit to the use of "paint," as makeup was called.  So cosmetics were applied surreptitiously.

Commercially produced makeup did begin to appear around the turn of the previous century, and makeup came out in public in the 1920s.  Many women made their fortunes in the new cosmetics industry, including some Jewish immigrants.  Unfortunately, cosmetics did not come under official regulation until 1938.  Until that point, many of the products contained seriously dangerous ingredients.  One of the most notorious was an eyelash dye, Lashlure,  that caused burning to the eye that caused permanent blindness for some and even one death. 

 The first commercially produced mascara was sold by Maybelline in the form of a cake (much like soap) that required a wet brush to be used to apply it to the lashes.  Mascara was also available as cream and a liquid, but all forms required a brush for application.  A mascara wand had been patented  in 1939, but the use of that tool only took off in the late 1950s. 

Apparently, the area of face focus of the intervening years shifted to the lips.  In fact, during World War II, cosmetic manufacturers convinced the government to allow them to continue to manufacture lipstick even when products used in its production were at  the time reserved for the war effort.   There was even a shade of lipstick designated for women serving in uniform, designed to coordinate with the official colors.

While many of you have probably did not wear makeup while you were in uniform, i.e. attending school, you will find that the expectation has shifted now.  While you would not improve your image by streaking your face, not wearing any makeup conveys the message (whether you mean it or not) that you do not devote enough attention to  your appearance.   Makeup provides a polished finish that is expected in both professional and social settings.  Color applied for subtle enhancement is always a safe bet.  While you can use stronger colors and more sparkle for an evening look, you should still not overdo it.  The key is to draw attention to your features -- not to your makeup.  Skillful makeup application would prompt a remark like "You look terrific," or even "That's a great color on you," but not "That's a very pretty purple eye shadow."

Bridal Beauty MakeupTips by Debby Grossman

On your wedding day you want to look and feel your absolute best. Your wedding make-up should enhance your features so you look like more radiant, and beautiful.

For your wedding makeup, stay away from anything trendy. Fresh, pretty makeup will have a timeless appeal at the wedding and in your photos for generations to come. If you want some extra reassurance, consider scheduling a trial with a professional make-up artist well ahead of time. Your make-up artist and you will discuss how to best enhance your features, as well as how to help your skin look great on your special day.

SKIN CARE:

Begin with proper face cleansing. Never go to sleep with make-up. Use a gentle cleanser on your face every night.

Don’t try any new or harsh skin care regimens right before your wedding. If you’ve never tried a facial, or waxing, DON’T try them right before your wedding. Keep in mind that facials, and electrolysis and waxings should be done at least two week in advance in order to avoid temporary acne and unnecessary mishaps, which takes time to clear up.

 If your skin is overly dry and flaky or extremely oily, now is the time to tackle the problem. It’s a good idea to a dermatologist well before your wedding day. You’ll be glad you did! Remember, your make-up can only look as good as your skin under it.

Emergency crying tips: Brighten red eyes with an off white eyeliner on the inside of the bottom lid.

Puffy eyes from lack of sleep: A cold compress, using either a tea bag, cucumber, or potato slices, are all very good for reducing puffiness.

Over tweezed eyebrows: Carrying the idea of thin as the ideal, some women remove too much hair from their eyebrows. Thin eyebrows, however,  are not only not today's look but can be unflatteringly  harsh looking.  Prolonged over-tweezing can make it difficult to grow the eyebrows back in evenly. So exercise restraint in tweezing. If your eyebrows have been rendered too thin, fill them in with eyebrow powder. Using small light-handed strokes will achieve a most natural effect.

Helpful hints for wedding make-up:

• Brows frame the face, so make sure they are defined with a touch of makeup if needed.

• Having your eyes and face lightly contoured adds a nice dimension to your face and photos.

• Powder helps your make-up stay on, and keeps your face looking matte in photography, as well.

• Waterproof mascara is a must to prevent smudging if you should get teary.

• Lips should not be dry. Apply lip balm for a few days before your wedding day. There is nothing worse then a pretty lipstick on chapped lips. Stay away from brown tone lipsticks. They can make you look washed out when wearing white.

Above of all, staying calm is essential in order to enjoy planning the wedding and everything that goes along with it.

May you always be a source of joy to all your friends and family!!

Best wishes,

Debby

Enduring Beauty

By Chasi Nitekman

            Remember Cinderella’s warning?  When the clock strikes twelve, all the magic ends.   We all experience the same when our makeup begins to spread, and our look goes from fresh to drooping.  But it doesn’t have to be that way.  Enduring beauty is possible. The radiant look you have when freshly made up can last all evening,  even past the twelve chimes of midnight.   No magic wand is required.  All you have to do is follow some basic beauty steps to keep your look fresh.

            Contrary to popular belief, makeup application is just a small step in the big picture of your appearance. Just as an artist spends as much time preparing the canvas as he does perfecting the masterpiece, the beautiful effect on your own face follows preparation.  Without adequate care, a face can not look its shining best no matter how talented a makeup artist.

            Step 1: If you are experiencing skin care issues, see a cosmetologist at least one month before your big night. You do not want any unexpected reactions.  The same holds true for waxing ECT: schedule your appointments no closer than one week prior to the wedding day.

            Step 2:  Proper daily care is always a must. Never go to bed without a thoroughly cleansed face, and always moisturize.  Woman with oilier skin should find products appropriate for them. If you have dryer skin, an exfoliater is recommended preceding the moisturizer. For severer cases of skin imperfections, serums can be temporarily used for a quick boost. Conditioning your skin and keeping it moisturized will prime it so that  foundation can stick beautifully on your special day.

            Step 3: When booking a makeup artist, have her jot down all your concerns, expectations and exact color preferences at the time of your consult. This prevents any wedding day “surprises”; nobody likes to be surprised in that way on her wedding day.

            Step 4: Beauty sleep is of course mandatory for an effortless overall glow!

 Now pay close attention, for I am about to divulge the inside tricks of the trade.  These are secrets that no makeup artist wants to reveal:

            A: The secret to longer-lasting foundation is primed skin.  So be sure to moisturize and use primer, a product that improves skin texture. Your foundation will  glide on smoothly and retains longevity.

            B: Shadow magnet, a product to lighten dark eyelids and prevent creasing. Shadow applies true to color. Apply over entire eyelid and all eyes will be on your eyes!

            C: Primer for lashes helps condition lashes as well as adding volume without applying too many coats of mascara. Let those lashes go to bat for you!

            D: Cream blush beneath the powder for long lasting effects.

            E: Line and fill lips with liner, then powder them. Kiss those lip sealers goodbye. Dry lips are unattractive, so grab a great looking evening bag and BRING YOUR LIPSTICK!  That is one thing that will inevitably need touchups, so I always include lipstick in the bridal kit I give kallahs for refresh their makeup..

            F: A “dewy” spray mist gives the final “setting” effect and gives instant illumination – your skin will glow, and you’ll look great in your photos.

            Last, but definitely not least, true beauty comes from within. Flawless, lasting exquisiteness can only achieved by an air of confidence, a heartfelt smile and a fantastically filled makeup bag!  So prime yourself to enjoy your simcha, and your inner beauty will shine through the night!

Chasi Nitekman is a certified makeup artist with many years experience. She is available for consultations ,courses, and private lessons . 

Step 1 Clear off.

To remove flakes of eyeshadow or mascara that have made their way lower on your face throughout the day, dip a cotton ball into translucent powder to wipe away the makeup particles on the parts of your face where you don’t want them. To get rid of raccoon eyes, dampen a cotton swab and run it under the lower lash to remove mascara and eyeliner that has spread beyond where you want it. If that doesn’t do the trick, use eye makeup remover

Step 2: Dewy does it.

Start by applying a neutral shadow over the entire eyelid. Add some dramatic impact by lining you eyes with a dark shadow applied with a fine brush.

Apply shimmer on the center of the upper eyelid and the inner corner of the eye to help brighten the eyes, giving you a more awake look.

Step 5: A rosy glow.

For long-lasting lip color, try a stain formula. Avoid getting it on fingers by using an applicator and blotting. Keep your lipstick confined to your lips for the night. To prevent the color from bleeding, apply translucent powder along the outer edge of the lips. You can use a small brush, a clean eyeshadow applicator, or a cotton swab for the purpose.

Step 7: Ready, set, shine! To make your lips look a bit plumper, dab a bit of petroleum jelly or lip gloss in the center of your lips. For all over lip shine, spread evenly over lips

 3 Basic Steps for Daily Summer Beauty

Step 1: An Ounce of Prevention

A daily dab of sunscreen will save you from many more ounces of wrinkle reducers later, and, more importantly, reduce your risk of skin cancer. Even if you do not plan to lie on the beach, simply walking on a sunny sidewalk exposes you face to ultra-violet rays.  While you may like the tanning effect, you won’t like the burn or the long-term damage to skin caused by such exposure, especially for those who are naturally fair.  So begin your daily beauty routine with sunscreen.  You can find sunscreen protection built into facial moisturizers and foundation creams, so it will take you only one step to get your basic layer and essential protection.  Look for SPF of 15, and you may find it in a number of makeup choices.   You can increase your protection for your face (and sheitel) by wearing a broad-brimmed hat.  You can find styles to compliment both dressy and casual looks.  Add sun glasses with UV protection for the eyes for a finished glamorous look to keep you healthy.

But that doesn’t mean you are condemned to colorlessness.  Just don’t try to achieve a sun-kissed glow by slathering on a foundation tinted darker than your skin tone.  The result will not be far from natural-looking.  Instead, apply a bronzing powder (now you can even get bronzers with built in SPF of 20), or just bring out natural-looking color from your cheeks and lips.

Step 2: Add Healthy Color 

A hint of color on the cheeks or lips gives your face a healthy glow. Which feature you decide to play up depends partly on your natural coloring and partially on your preferences for effect. Women with fair skin are likely to look pale without blush. On the other hand, women with more colorful complexions can skip it and just play up their coloring with a touch of lipstick.
 
To determine the shade of blush that would look most natural on you, match the color your face takes on when you exercise.   Find the right spot for your blush by smiling and then applying it to the apple of your cheek and back toward the center of your ear.  Don’t try to spread the color below that point.  Too low a blush line will make your face appear wider than it actually is.

For natural looking lips, choose a shade that is just a bit deeper than your lips’ natural color.  The lipstick alone gives your lips some measure of sun protection, but you can layer it over a sunblock for lips or look for a lipstick with built in SPF.    If the color looked fine in the tube, but not on you, don’t toss it out right away.  There may be a remedy.   Lighten too dark lipstick with a pale tinted gloss.  Darken a too light lipstick by using a brown-tinted lip pencil to line and serve as a foundation color on your lips.  But be sure that the darker color of the lipliner does not show create an outline that is darkly distinct from the rest of your lip color. You can also opt for a light touch of glamour by just applying lip gloss or a lightly tinted gloss.  For a highlighting effect that makes your lips look fuller, place a light dab of gloss just in the center of your lips.

Step 3:  The Eyes Have It

When you take off your sunglasses, your eyes should be ready to face the world.  People are naturally drawn to they eyes in a person’s face, so it deserves some of your attention, too. If you have truly thick, dark lashes, then you can skip mascara and just highlight your eyes with a touch of eyeliner or eyeshadow if you wish.  But for the rest of us, mascara is the form of makeup we hold to be most essential.  While black mascara is the almost universal choice, if your hair is blond or red, you may consider a brown or “soft” black for a more natural look than that produced by an intense black.  If you want more intense color, you can experiment with mascaras with a hint of purple or green to bring out your eye color. 

The same goes for eyeliners.  You can choose neutrals like blacks, grays, and browns, or select shades to contrast with your eye color.  Almay has a line to take the guess work out of what colors to choose for your eyes.  Note:  if you are planning on swimming, sports, or just a long day, you’ll want the extra-staying power of a waterproof formula.  The waterproof mascara will only come off completely with makeup remover.  For daily wear, a washable formula is more easily removed when you wash your face with just soap and water, so it eliminates that extra step. 

Professional Makeup Application

You may benefit from consultation with a professional makeup artist to learn what colors to use and how to apply them. 

Be clear about how much time you have to devote to your makeup routine.  At a makeup demonstration I attended, the makeup artist explained

that she was achieving an evening look in 20 minutes.  What takes time is:  1)applying makeup in layers, with a type of base applied all over the face, as well as eyelids, lashes, and lips. 2) using specific brushes.

Eyes: The makeup artist recommended beginning with the eyes before applying foundation so that you can more easily clean up and cover any color that smudges from the eyes.  She first applied a cream base to the eyelid, explaining that it would help the eye shadow adhere better.  She colored the whole lid and brow bone with a highlighter color, which she specified should not extend beyond the eyebrow.  While that may be let alone for a simple day look, it could be enhanced with a deep color to contour the crease.  That should be applied with a brush, beginning from the outer corner and then brushed back and forth in a windshield washer motion.  She chose a gold color to add sparkle to the eyelids.  She cautioned that when choosing less neutral colors like blue and green, you should only select soft shades of color. A white base was used for the eyelashes, followed by mascara, applied with the wand to the upper lashes and dabbed on with a brush to the lower lashes to avoid the "spidery" look that may result from too much extension of the lower lashes.  (So we revert to the use of brushes on the lashline.)  Generally, she recommends using a powder or gel for eyeliner rather than pencils for more lasting power.   The gel is more convenient than powder because the brush used does not have to be wet.  The makeup artist lines the upper lid completely, but only the outer half of the lower eye to give a more open look.

Brushes:  The makeup artist preferred brushes to other applicators.  About using your hands directly, she said that while natural warmth adds to the ease of spreading some products, the natural oils that mix in diminish the staying power of makeup.  Specialized brushes are designed for different areas of makeup.  The price of professional quality brushes can amount to more than the makeup.  To protect your investment, you cannot just wash them in your regular shampoo and leave them to dry upright.  That will cause the brushes to dry and bristles to fall out.  As the bristles are not lubricated by natural oils like your hair, you cannot use the same formula on them that you use for shampoo.  Opt for a gentle, fragrance-free baby shampoo.  Equally important is your method of drying.  Leaving them upside down causes water to collect where the bristles are glued in, which will wear the glue away.  Instead, lie the brushes down to dry overnight.  If you are in a hurry when cleaning your brushes, you'll have to buy a product specially formulated to clean brushes while keeping them dry.

Color:  Foundation should be applied with downward strokes on the face and upward strokes on the neck.  It should match your skin as exactly as possible.  Do not attempt to give yourself the look of a tan by applying a darker foundation.  It won't look good.  If you want a  sun-kissed glow, apply a bronzing powder over your foundation.  You can also use it in lieu of blush.  Matte finishes are out for both face and lips.  If you're going for an evening look, the face powders of choice lend a dewy finish with hints of sparkle.  (The makeup artist praised the effect for pictures.)  If your lipstick does not have built in shine, you can top it with lip gloss.  Just remember not to have the shine shout.  Your color choices should complement your natural color tones.  Women with sallow skin should pick rosy shades for their lips and cheeks.  On the other hand, if your color contains pink, you should opt for tawny shades.   Bear in mind, though, that yellow-toned lipsticks can emphasize yellow in teeth, while blue tones will lend a whiter look.   Blush should be applied from the apples of the cheeks downward.  To find the right spot, smile into the mirror to bring out your cheeks.  Your final results should make you smile again.

Aviva Rizel Answers Your Sheitel Question

hi!
I hope you do not mind my asking you this question.
do you suggest that a kallah get a custom wig for her first wig? (my
friend's daughter has connections and can get it at a good price.) is there any
disadvantage to doing so? (as compared to getting a semi-custom wig out of the
box)
thanks!

Mrs G,.

 

Dear Mrs. G.,

Mazel tov on your daughter's engagement and thank you for your question.  Many women have asked me the same question when they are on the market for a new sheitel.  I normally discourage most women from purchasing a custom wig, as they are much more costly, and not that much more advantageous to semi-custom wigs.   The main reason I do so is because if one orders a custom wig, she is typically obligated to purchase it, even if she is not satisfied with the finished product.  Another factor is that the hair quality is usually identical to high-end semi-customs.  If one does proper research, then she is likely to find a semi-custom that is right for her.

If she cannot find a semi-custom that she likes, there is another option.  Often, when ordering a semi-custom from a large company, one is able to "special order" a semi-custom wig.  This means that she can specify the color, cap size, part (right, middle, left, or multi-directional), as well as the hair type (silky straight, straight with body on the bottom, wavy or curly, etc.).  A special order wig is the same price as the semi-custom model, and one is not obligated to purchase it.  The only disadvantage to a special order wig is the time constraint.  Such a wig will take up to 8 weeks to be produced and shipped.  At that point, the customer may not be satisfied with the wig and will have to start the process over.  Fortunately, she is not under any obligation to buy the unsatisfactory wig.  

A custom wig (as mentioned in my archived article, "Sheitels 101") is good for a woman with an unusual color, an unusual texture (very tight curls, for example), an irregular hairline or an extra large or extra small head size.  But please beware that even if one has an irregular hairline and orders a custom wig, the cap often will not cover perfectly.  This actually happened to me as a kallah and I alleviated the problem by cutting bangs and angles that cover it strategically, but it made me doubt the virtues of a custom wig. 

In conclusion, I find that for the majority of the population, a semi-custom wig is a sensible purchase that can be styled to look just as beautiful as a custom.  Perhaps you can use your daughter's connection toward a discounted semi-custom.  Hatzlacha Rabbah!  (P.S. Be sure that your daughter uses a patient and knowledgable sheitel macher who can teach her all the tricks a kallah needs to know about her sheitel!)

-Aviva Rizel

 Sheitels 101               

                                                                                           By Aviva Rizel of Aviva’s Cuts

One of the most taxing decisions a kallah endures is choosing her first sheitel.  All sheitel machers know that when servicing a kallah, we must be patient and informative.  Even with the most considerate sheitel macher, a kallah can leave her salon even more confused than when she walked in.  This is due to the plethora of information surrounding a sheitel.  It behooves all kallahs to do a little research before scheduling a sheitel appointment.  I have put together below a crash-course in purchasing a sheitel.  It is only the “lecture” part of the course.  The supplementary “lab” is given at your local sheitel macher’s salon, where she will guide you in exploring sheitels hands-on.   We’ll start with the basic components that distinguish sheitels. 

The Cap

The cap of your wig will contribute to its comfort level.  Some wigs have an open weft, which means that the rows of hair are held together by columns of elastic strips.  The (minor) benefit of this that I personally have found is that you can reach through the  the cap to scratch your head. 

Aside from that minute benefit, most women find a stretch cap to be more comfortable.  It is made of a lightweight, tightly-woven elastic mesh and conforms easily to the unique shape of each woman’s head.  There is also a super-light weight stretch cap, sometimes known as “stocking stretch cap.”  Customers who purchase wigs with this type of cap rave about the comfort of it.  While it is exceptionally comfortable, it is also exceptionally delicate, calling for special care in washing.  Most higher-end wigs are made with a stretch cap.  Freeda Wigs, for example just updated their entire inventory from open weft to stretch.  Some of the less expensive companies have a stretch cap in one or two of their models (for example, Yaffa’s “Le Differance”).

The Top/Scalp

Most wigs these days have a skin top.  A skin-toned material is in the cap of the wig by the part of the hair. The more economical type of skin top is simply a strip (sometimes wide, sometimes narrow, depending on the company) in the place where the part is.  This means that if the skin-toned strip is on the left side, the wig should not be parted on the right side. While you can direct the hair that way, the part would reveal the netting rather than the skin tone. 

Certain wigs have the skin-toned material spanning the entire top of the wig.  This is known as a multi-directional wig. It can be parted on the right side, left side, off-center, or in the middle. But that does not mean that you can easily direct the hair any way you like.  Some customers become frustrated when they attempt to comb the hair to the part it differently themselves because the hair flips back to the original part.  The hair will only stay parted if it is blown dry in the new direction.  So your best bet is to get your sheitel macher to style it to the new part.  Multi-directional wigs are generally more costly though, and a lot of customers find that they don’t change their parts around.  A wig can still be beautiful and natural looking without being a multi-directional wig. 

            While many companies do a beautiful job with the skin-scalp, I have found the Allegria scalp to be the most natural from any other company that I have seen.  However, I do not intend to promote one company over another.  Each kallah should consider all of a wig’s features before making her decision. 

Various Tiers of Wigs

1) Out-of-the-box wigs include Yaffas, Georgies, Michals, Judys and others.  This type of wig is more affordable than semi-custom or custom.  The cap is usually open weft, and adjustable one-size-fits all.  The hair may be synthetic, blend (50% synthetic/50% human), or 100% human.  The human hair of an out-of-the-box wig is typically Asian and it has been heavily treated.  The hair is stripped of its color, and then dyed.  It is also treated with various chemicals.  Some customers of mine do not like the hair because of its not-so-natural feel, yet others insist on an out-of-the-box because of its low maintenance.  The hair is able to hold style better and for longer.  This makes it a smart choice for the budget-conscious because it is less expensive to purchase, and costs less over its long-term maintenance. 

Out-of-the-box companies have made great gains in many of their wigs.  I’ve seen some companies products evolve over the years to look and feel like a higher end wig.  Some have a stretch cap with a multi-directional top, and some have less processed hair.  I have noticed, however, that they still shed more than a semi-custom or custom wig.  This means that an out-of-the-box wig should not be thinned during the cutting process, because hair will fall out on its own. 

2) Semi-custom wigs are the kind that I encourage most of my customers to purchase.  Some well-known semi-custom companies are Freeda, Allegria, and Shevy. A semi-custom wig has hair that is extremely natural to the eye and to the touch because it has not been stripped of its color and then, subsequently dyed.  The hair quality is typically the same as a custom wig.

Many caps are stretch caps and come in Small, Medium or Large.  It is recommended to purchase a wig that is slightly snug because it stretches minimally over time.  The hair is usually hand-sewn, strand, by strand on the top part of the wig, and machine-sewn throughout the rest.  Some companies offer a wig that is entirely hand-sewn, for slightly more money.  I find that such a wig is comparable to a custom wig, for a fraction of the price.     

Fortunately, it is quite simple to shop around when purchasing a semi-custom wig.  Find out the company, make and color, then compare prices.  (According to Halacha, you should be honest with the sheitel machers about your intent to gather information before committing to a purchase.) Additionally, if you know of a particular brand that you are interested in, but do not know of a sheitel macher that sells it, call up the company and ask if there is one in your area.  

3) Custom wigs, by definition, vary from piece to piece.  A woman buying a custom wig chooses the hair texture, and length.  The cap is fitted or molded to match the woman’s hairline.  Hair samples are taken to ensure a perfect color match.  An owner of a custom wig has something that is unique to her head shape and hair color.  

With this said, I do not encourage the average customer to purchase a custom wig.  Firstly, they are more costly than a comparable semi-custom wig.  Secondly, the customer is obligated to purchase it once it has been manufactured.  I, for one, was unhappy with a custom wig that I purchased as a kallah.  I chose the hair texture and type, only to find that once it was made, it tangled often.  I was also unsatisfied with the cap.  It was made to match my hairline, yet it never lay right and I always had to be sure that the hair covered my temples.

A good candidate for a custom wig is someone with an exceptionally large or exceptionally small head, someone with curly hair, someone with red or ash blond hair, or someone with an extremely asymmetrical or irregular hairline.  (It is important to note that everybody has some asymmetry and irregularity within their hairline.)  For those of you readers who are candidates for a custom, but do not have the budget for it, do not dismay.  With a little research, and a lot of patience, you may be able to find a semi-custom that meets your needs. 

With the above information, you are armed and ready to begin your quest for your first sheitel.  A beautiful, comfortable sheitel will help you perform the mitzvah of covering your hair b’simcha.  Wear your sheitel with pride—as a queen with a crown that befits her noble station!    

Aviva’s Cuts Salon is located in Bayswater.  Aviva sell most wig brands and has international experience cutting wigs.  She sees customers by appointment, in order to give them  full attention.  You can call her at 917-715-7190.   If you have a question about sheitels, you can email her at avivascuts@kallahmagazine.com

                       Your Perfect Sheitel Style

By Aviva Rizel

When choosing the cut for your new sheitel, there are two things to consider: what will flatter your face, and how to avoid looking “wiggy”.  This article will attempt to answer both questions.  Check in Part I to find which face shape is yours, and learn which cut will look best one you.  Then go on to Part II to make a good sheitel look great with tips toward a natural look.

Part I “Which Cut Will Flatter My Face?”

Oval: An oval face shape has the most options because almost any haircut will flatter it. 

Whichever length you choose, cut layers around your face.  The layers and angles fall out between your cheekbone and chin length.  A good way to decide how short to go is by determining which is your best feature --  your cheekbones, mouth or chin.  Have your stylist cut the angles and layers the same length as the feature you want to accentuate.   If your sheitel has thick hair or curly hair, avoid a blunt cut like a severe bob.

Long or Oblong: This face shape can be mistaken for an oval shape since it is essentially a longer, possibly thinner, oval. 

A long face can look good with a medium length.  Very long hair (more than two inches past the collarbone) will make a long face appear even longer.  Close-cropped hair will also elongate a long face.  Instead, opt for medium lengths, with styles that add width.  You can create width for straight hair with bangs. Long, side-swept bangs are very modern. Chin-length bobs are also ideal for you because they create the illusion of width. Curls and waves also add width, but avoid short layers that add volume on top.

Round: A round face is not necessarily a large face.  It is round if there is less cheekbone definition or fuller cheeks.

Your best bet is a style that falls right below your chin. Soft, graduated layers are also a great because they make your face appear slimmer and tend to remove width from the sides. Bangs are flattering, but keep them long or sideswept.  Wispy and tapered ends are also flattering (and current).  If you opt for a short sheitel, avoid a single-length, blunt cut.

Square: A square face’s strongest feature is its angular and wide jaw-line. 

If you have a square face, you'll want to balance out your features by use of texture.  Texture can come in the form of curls or choppy ends.  You can also get away with short, spiky cuts or long, sleek styles with layers that start at the jaw-line and continue downward.  Avoid chin-length cuts and blunt-cut bangs.  These will create a harsh look, and a square face does best with a style that softens.

Heart: A heart shaped face will have a pointier chin that extends past the jaw-line. 

Your chin tends to be the focal point of your face. Draw attention to your eyes and cheekbones by drawing the view upward with side-swept bangs (these act almost like arrows to your eyes or cheeks).  Some soft angles just below the eyebrow will also serve to balance the focus of your face.  If you have a short sheitel, keep the top layers soft and long. If your sheitel is long, go for wavy layers that graze your cheekbones.  Avoid blunt-cut bangs and harsh, choppy layers.

Part II “How Can I Have a Natural Look?”

The cut is a key component of a natural and flattering look. A cut that is very current, and flattering for every face shape also happens to be a great natural look for a wig. It is the side-swept banged, long-layered bob, which will make your sheitel look good and do wonders for your face.  If you have a long sheitel, have the ends cut in a slight U shape, with the hair around your face subtly shorter than the hair in the back. When long hair is cut in a blunt straight line, it tends to look unhealthy, overgrown, or even gothic. A subtle U shape softens the lengthy look.

Keep the shape natural with a smooth top.  Your sheitel will look best if the hair on the very top of the cap (around the part) lays flat.  No matter what face shape you have, you should not get short layers around the top of your head.  I like to use a trick to keep the top from having too much height.  I smooth down the hair by flattening the “roots” with my hand or with a brush over the hair, and I run the blow-dryer while it is very taut against the cap.  

A subtle way to make your sheitel look less “wiggy” is by styling in a crooked part.  It can either be a straight line that is slanted toward one side, or it can be a few hairs in one direction, and a few hairs in the other (all within a one-inch zone, otherwise this will look too messy).

The last way to make your wig look more natural is by feeling natural in it.  If you are in the mood for a ponytail, go for it.  If you feel like today is the day to go wavy via mousse, scrunch away.  Try to wear your sheitel the same way you would wear your hair.  So don’t throw out your clips and scrunchies.  They can find a second life in your sheitel.

Aviva’s Cuts Salon, founded and owned by Aviva Rizel, is located in Bayswater, NY. Aviva sells diverse brands of wigs and has international experience cutting and styling.  See her previous articles archived on the Reflections page of www.kallahmagazine.com.   If you would like to share any sheitel questions or comments, please email her at avivascuts@kallahmagazine.com.  For an appointment, please call 917-715-7190.

10 Tips for Lengthening the Life of Your Sheitel

By Aviva Rizel

             After much trying and considering and going over the useful information in Sheitels 101, you finally pick out what will work for you.  Now you will want to protect that investment. While you’ve been working with your own hair all your life, sheitels are different.  They require care if they are to maintain color, sheen and luster.  The following is a list of ten tips that are quite simple to follow and equally rewarding:

1. If I had the luxury of space, I would take up all of the pages in this fine publication to tell you a thousand times, “Never, EVER, use a flat iron on your sheitel!”  It is vital to stress this point to your wig stylist, as there is a common misconception that a flat iron does not damage the sheitel.  I beg to differ, as when I returned from maternity leave from my salon, I noticed that my customers’ sheitels seemed much more brittle than I had remembered.  Indeed, when I inquired about it, they admitted that the other stylist used a flat iron.  The damage to the sheitel was noticeable after merely being exposed to the iron one or two times.  Can you imagine the cumulative effect the iron would have on a sheitel after repeated exposures? 

While you may have noticed no problems when using the iron on your own hair, you must realize, that your own hair is always growing.  So the damage caused by the iron is offset by natural replenishment.  Unlike your own hair, however, your sheitel’s hair will not regenerate itself.  Therefore, it is imperative that you give it extra care and have a no-tolerance policy regarding the iron.

 2. Keep all snap clips closed when you are not wearing your sheitel.   Often, hair will become extremely tangled in an open clip of a sheitel that is not being worn.  Severe tangles lead to hair breakage, and that is something that should be avoided.  It is a very fast and easy step to add to your sheitel routine—after removing your sheitel from your head, simply close all of the clips.  Visually check to ensure that no hair has gotten caught in it.  Don’t forget to open them before you put your sheitel on the next morning.

3. Brush your sheitel before putting it on, after taking it off and in between wears.  This is to avoid extreme tangles, which can, as mentioned above, lead to breakage.  Additionally, brushing your sheitel can help the set last longer.  Brush your sheitel in the direction of its style.  For example, if your sheitel is blown like the “Farrah Fawcett” look, use a round brush and hold it vertically.  Wrap the hair around the brush and gently twist toward the ends of the hair.

 4. If you wash your own sheitel, use a shampoo that is made for color treated hair.  This type of shampoo will be the most gentle on your sheitel locks, while still thoroughly cleaning it.  Use warm water.

5. If you wash your own sheitel, deep condition it before blow-drying.     

After rinsing out the shampoo, apply a thick conditioner to your sheitel.  It is important to saturate the hair with it.  Run your fingers, or a wide-toothed comb through the sheitel.  Let it sit in the treatment for at least one hour.  You may let it sit in it for as long as you can spare—a day, or even a week.  Rinse it out with warm water.  This will prevent the hair from tangling and will keep the hair soft and moisturized. 

6. If you have a curly sheitel, avoid touching as much as possible.  Never comb or brush it.  When washing it, I recommend mixing equal parts shampoo with equal parts water in a spray bottle.  Spray the solution throughout hair while it is securely pinned on the Styrofoam head.  Proceed to rinse out the solution by spraying it with pure water.  You may apply conditioner gently with your hands, but only in a scrunching motion, never in a combing motion.  Rinse as you did with the shampoo.  Some women rinse out the conditioner only partly, as it helps avoid tangles.

7. Use hair product with a UV block.  This is the secret to maintaining the sheitel’s original color.  Sunlight or extreme heat causes hair to oxidize.  As a result it will appear lighter in color or take on a reddish tint.  Blocking the sun’s harmful ultraviolet rays will mitigate the oxidizing effect.  Look for sprays for hair which offer that protection. If you give your sheitel to a stylist, give him/her the UV-block hair product to use during styling.  It is advisable to write your name on the bottle, as it may become misplaced in the hustle and bustle of a busy salon.

8.Don’t insert any T-pins in the skin cap of your sheitel.  Instead, look for where the cap is transparent mesh or an open weft, and secure the pins in that area.  A safe bet is directly above the earflaps. 

9. If you will not be wearing your sheitel for prolonged periods of time (i.e. a Shabbos sheitel during the week), keep it pinned securely on a head, with a loose, thin scarf covering it.  Keeping it in the sheitel box will not allow it to “breathe.”  The scarf will protect it from any dust in the air and from any UV rays coming in from a nearby window.

10.Avoid wearing your sheitel while cooking and cleaning.  We often, unwittingly, ruin a fresh new setting while busying ourselves in housework.  Worse yet, we may not realize that the harsh bleach that we are using to scrub tiles is splashing into our soon-to-be-speckled-platinum-blond-custom sheitel.  Such a mishap is easily avoidable by changing into a snood or kerchief whenever you are putting on work clothes.  You should not sleep in your sheitel, for that will cause it to tangle badly.  You should avoid prolonged exposure to cigarette smoke when wearing your sheitel (and always!), because the smell of the smoke clings to the hair.

By abiding by the above ten tips, you will protect your investment in your sheitel and be able to enjoy it for years to come.  Mazel tov, and may you and your chosson be zocheh to build a bayis ne’eman b’yisroel!

Aviva’s Cuts Salon, founded and owned by Aviva Rizel, is located in Bayswater, NY. Aviva sells most brands of wigs and has international experience cutting and styling. If you would like to share any sheitel questions or comments, please email her at avivascuts@kallahmagazine.com.  For an appointment, please call 917-715-7190.

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