EASY SUMMER ENTERTAINING

The preoccupation with dreaming up wonderful and easy summer dishes started very early this year for me. I found myself listening, rather incredulously, to the weather report on the news, one Thursday morning, and the forecast was: Temperature in the high eighties. We were in the last Shabbos of April, and I thought to myself, what’s up with that? What happened to spring? Sure enough, the odd prediction turned out to be accurate, and then some.  So we got a taste of summer heat early in spring, and I planned my menu accordingly.

 My children and grandchildren were spending that Shabbos with us, and I was determined to serve food that would lend itself to the scorching temperatures, easily and effortlessly, and as always (you know me!) nutritiously, while leaving us ample time to find refuge in the balmy shadow of the beautiful blooming trees in Riverside Park.  This menu proved to be a hit with everyone -- big and small.  No wonder the grandchildren always want to come to Bubbie’s for meals!

 To say that this menu is easy to prepare is an understatement. Just a couple of hours will suffice to prepare this whole meal for a dozen guests.  Cold foods do not in the least suffer from being served cold, provided they are prepared with fresh, seasonal ingredients and highlighted with the most assertive flavors: Simply put, they gloriously stand on their own! You just can’t go wrong with the following dishes:

“Yogurt” fruit soup

The mixture of soy milk and citrus juice results in that curdled texture and tangy flavor we look for in yogurt and buttermilk, and best of all, it is pareve, which means it’s a surefire hit in dairy-free meals. Just look in my book “Levana Cooks Dairy –free” and see all the wonderful stuff I whip up with non-dairy products the natural way!

This soup is wonderfully refreshing, and so pretty. It’s just the perfect choice for hot summer days because it requires no cooking! For optimal results, fold in the reserved diced fruit just before serving.

 
4 cups soy milk

1/2 cup lime juice

4 kiwis

2 cups green grapes

2 wedges honeydew

2 granny smith apples

1 pound silken tofu

1/2 cup maple syrup

1 tablespoon grated lime zest

1/4 cup mint leaves, packed

Mix the soy milk with the lime. Mixture will curdle. Set aside while you prepare the rest of the soup.

Dice half of the fruit small and set aside. In a blender or fruit processor, in batches if necessary, puree the remaining half of the fruit, the reserved soy milk mixture, the tofu, maple syrup, zest and mint. Transfer the creamed mixture to a bowl. Fold in the diced fruit. Chill. Serve topped with a mint sprig

Seared tuna with black bean corn salsa

Cash in on the great abundance of summer corn and tomatoes. Use fresh corn please; it will make the whole difference and it is a snap to prepare.  Make sure the tuna is nice and thick, or you will risk overcooking it. Do not cook it a minute over medium rare.

 
4 cobs corn

2 cups canned black beans, rinsed and drained

1 large tomato, seeded and diced small

2 ribs celery, peeled and sliced very thin

1/2 purple onion, chopped fine.

4 large cloves garlic, minced

1 tablespoon cumin.

2 tablespoons capers.

1/4 cup chopped flat parsley.

1/4 cup chopped cilantro

1/3 cup olive oil.

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice.

2 tablespoons red hot sauce.

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground pepper

 
Bring water to boil in a large pot. Add the corn cobs and cook 5 minutes. Remove cobs and rinse under cold water. Stand the cobs on a board and scrape the kernels off with a knife. Transfer the kernels to a mixing bowl, with all remaining ingredients. Combine thoroughly. Arrange in platter, with sliced tuna on top or around (recipe follows). Serve at room temperature.

 
Seared tuna

1 tablespoon olive oil

2-3 tuna steaks, 1 inch thick

Salt and pepper to taste

 
Heat the oil in a heavy skillet. Season the tuna with the salt and pepper. When the oil is very hot, add the tuna. Sear about 1 minute on each side for medium rare. Let cool just a few minutes and slice thinly against the grain

 
Farfalle with garlic, spinach and basil

If you are watching your starch intake, or if you are simply, as I always am, looking for better grains, this is your chance to experiment with soba or rice noodles: Gluten-free and prepared in a snap, they will do the job with flying colors!

1 pound farfalle, boiled until just tender, 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid reserved (rice or soba noodles great too)

 1/2 cup olive oil

8 large cloves garlic

1 large bunch flat parsley

1 large bunch basil, leaves only

2 large bunches spinach, leaves only, cut in thin ribbons

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

1/4 cup tiny capers

Heat the oil in a large skillet. In a food processor, grind the garlic and add to the oil. Sauté the garlic until golden and fragrant. While the garlic is frying, coarsely grind the parsley and basil, and add to the skillet. Sauté until wilted. Add the spinach and sauté just 1-2 minutes more, until all liquids evaporate. Add the pasta and reserved liquid, salt, pepper, and capers, and toss. Serve at room temperature.

I beg you, no garlic powder. If, for Goodness only knows what reason, you don’t want to use fresh garlic, then it is better to not use any garlic at all, rather than ruin this fabulous dish with some mediocre ersatz! It takes so little to prepare, why not spend the full 2-3 minutes it takes to make it perfect? Nothing is more delicious and succulent than chicken breasts cooked the right way, which is, not overcooked, even by a second. Even if it looks slightly pink inside, remember the residual heat will reach the center in no time, and cook it to perfection.

 
6 large cloves garlic

3 tablespoons paprika

1/2 teaspoon cayenne, or more, to taste

1 tablespoon cumin

1 tablespoon oregano

3 bay leaves

Ground pepper to taste

3 tablespoons fine cornmeal

2 tablespoons olive oil

8 chicken cutlets, medium-thick

 
Grind all spice ingredients in a food processor until a smooth paste forms. Coat the cutlets in the spice mixture, using it all up.

Pour a few drops olive oil in a large heavy skillet. When the skillet is very hot, place the cutlets in, and cook no more than 2 minutes on each side. Serve hot or at room temperature, alone or on top of mixed greens very lightly tossed with a little olive oil and lemon, sea salt and pepper to taste (no need to make the dressing more complicated: the chicken is highly seasoned).

Delightful Summer Dishes

Dreading the heat generated by heating devices during the dog days of summer? Or dreading the heavy, cholesterol laden fare of the usual barbecue? Ah, this is when our creativity comes to the rescue, and rewards us with a feast. Cold foods, when properly and imaginatively composed, are so wonderful that I have no qualms whatsoever serving them a good part of the spring and all summer, even in the comfort of my own kitchen, to  distinguished company. The feeling of settling for a cold meal is totally foreign to me and, it seems, to all my guests and students who clamor for more such menus. I just know I can’t miss with some guidelines foremost in mind when matching flavors - seasonal; colorful; vibrant; assertive; light; low maintenance. Fresh cold foods render pesky Shabbos heating pads totally superfluous, allowing room only for the unobtrusive crockpot for those who must have their cholent, and leaving the house and those dining there nice and cool.   

Needless to say, as always when composing recipes and menus, I only have eyes for whole foods, so I end up with happy and grateful guests. I give demos on cold foods all the time, and the following dishes are some of my great favorites. The best part is they are so simple to prepare.  

QUINOA WITH SUN-DRIED TOMATOES AND OLIVES

Where has quinoa been all our lives? It has been around for ever, and is a staple in many parts of the world like South America. Only recently has it gained a more dignified place in this country. Not a grain in the strict sense of the term, it is permissible on Pesach, an allowance I totally cash in on. There is nothing I don’t make with it, crepes, soup, salads, you name it, even cookies. Make sure you rinse it very well, to rid it of the saponin, a natural product farmers spray on it to keep the birds (who also appreciate the taste of quinoa) away.  Please note I have not listed salt in my ingredients, as the dish has enough salty ingredients in it to amply season the dish.

2 cups quinoa (health food stores)

3 cups water

1 cup dry white wine

1/4 cup olive oil

1 large onion

4 large cloves garlic

1 bunch flat parsley

1/2 sun dried tomatoes, packed, rinsed, squeezed dry and cut into slivers

1/2 cup niçoise olives, or other very good quality olives, the smaller the better.

3 tablespoons capers

1/4 cup basil leaves, packed, cut into ribbons

Ground pepper to taste

Place quinoa in fine-mesh strainer. Rinse under cold water thoroughly, mixing constantly with your fingers, until the water runs clear. Let drain. Bring the water and wine to boil in a heavy pot. Add the drained quinoa, reduce the flame to medium and cook, covered, about 15 minutes, or until all liquids are absorbed and each grain starts opening slightly, showing a little white “bud”.

Meanwhile, heat the oil in a heavy pot. Coarsely grind the onion, garlic and parsley, and add to the oil. Sauté until translucent. Add the tomatoes, olives, capers, basil and pepper, and sauté 1-2 more minutes. Add this mixture to the quinoa and toss thoroughly. Serve hot.

ICED MINTED HONEYDEW AND KIWI SOUP.

I recently got no ends of compliments for a delightful bracelet I bought at some flea market, and the best part of the thrill is, I paid for it a price too ridiculously low to disclose. I feel very much the same way with this luxurious soup, which requires no cooking, gets whipped up in minutes, and tastes and looks as if you had slaved on it. If you think you won’t have time to chill the soup, then start with very cold ingredients, but do not add ice cubes, which will dilute the taste!

1 large honeydew melon, peeled, seeded and cubed

6 kiwis, peeled and halved

1/2 cup fresh lime juice

1/2 cup mint leaves, packed

1/4 cup maple syrup, or a little more to taste

3 cups white grape juice

Blend all ingredients in batches in a blender or food processor until smooth. Add a little more grape juice if it needs a little thinning. Chill. Serve topped with a slice of lime and a sprig of mint.

BLACKENED LONDON BROIL OVER MIXED GREENS

You will love this spice mixture on lots of other goodies: chicken breasts, salmon, tuna, tofu, Portobello, so go ahead and make a larger batch, and refrigerate the unused portion. You will be delighted to find it all ready for you when preparing your next meal. Only I beg you, do not put any salt in it, so you can use it freely on your meat dishes. You can always add salt where needed. 

Blackened spice mixture:

6 large cloves  garlic.

3 tablespoons paprika.

1/2 teaspoon cayenne, or more, to taste

1 tablespoon cumin.

1 tablespoon oregano.

3 bay leaves

Ground pepper to taste.

3 tablespoons fine cornmeal

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 London broil, about 1” thick, 2 1/2 to 3 pounds

Grind all spices. Process  ingredients in a food processor until a smooth paste forms. Coat the meat in the spice mixture, using it all up. Wrap the meat in plastic and marinate overnight, or at least 2 hours.

Preheat broiler. Broil close to the flame, about 7 minutes on each side. Meat will be medium rare. Let the meat rest 10 minutes, then slice thinly on a bias. Serve on top of your favorite mixed greens very lightly tossed with a little olive oil and cider vinegar. No need to do more with your greens; the meat is highly seasoned.

SALMON MOUSSE

This dish was born on the day I ruined the fish course for a large dinner by using a tiny and cute but treacherously hot pepper. (Habanero: I still shudder at the mere mention of the name!) Rather than sit and cry at the thought of the beautiful dish I had to discard, I carefully scanned my pantry and my refrigerator. This recipe is a real showcase for the wizardry of the food processor and is a rare case where I use canned foods, not to save money but to get something natural and fantastic in a pinch. I love the canned salmon. Just be certain that it is red salmon. And make sure the tuna is solid white. Don’t even say a word about the anchovies, and don’t cringe at the idea of using the skin and bones; they will disappear, leaving only the lovely smooth gelatinous texture we want for all molded dishes. Your ingredients must be bone-dry

or you will end up with a runny mess.

1 1/2 cups all-natural potato flakes (health food stores)

3/4 cup hot water

1 15-ounce pound can red salmon, drained and squeezed thoroughly dry

1 6-ounce can solid white tuna packed in oil, undrained

1 2-ounce can flat anchovy filets, thoroughly rinsed and squeezed dry

1 8-ounce container Tofutti cream cheese

2 roasted red peppers, bottled ok, patted thoroughly dry

6 sprigs dill, fronds and stems

1/2 small red onion

2 tablespoons green peppercorns, drained and patted dry

1 tablespoon lemon zest

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1 tablespoon paprika

Good pinch cayenne

Good pinch nutmeg

Mix the flakes with the boiling water in a bowl. Quickly mix with a fork until the flakes lose their dry look; the mixture will resemble play dough. Transfer the potato mixture to a food processor with all other ingredients. Grind the mixture, in batches if necessary, to a perfectly smooth paste. Cream all ingredients in a food processor until very smooth. Pour into a greased mold lined with plastic, or simply pour directly into the bowl you will be serving the mousse in. Chill thoroughly. If you used a mold, lift the plastic gently by the sides, the loaf will come right out. Invert onto a platter and peel off the plastic. Slice or spread on bread or crackers, garnished with capers or gherkins

BLUEBERRY CAKE WITH ALMOND STREUSEL

All of you readers whom we used to summer with in the Catskills all those years, I can see your smile.  How many batches of this delightful cake have we made? No, I don’t feel too old (yet!) to go blueberry-picking and running home with the loot for eating out of hand, or making soup, cake and vinegar. I am going yet again, with a straw hat on my head and a pail on my arm, one day this summer G-d willing with some other blueberry addicts: Yum! Please use a real, not disposable, cake pan, and enjoy the immense difference. My daughter just told me when I said I hope she used a real pan for a cake she recently made: “Come on, Mommy, I am your daughter, how can I possibly use a disposable pan?” Way to go!

3/4 cup oil

1 1/2 cups sugar

4 eggs

1 tablespoon baking powder

1 tablespoon grated orange zest

3 cups all purpose flour (whole wheat pastry or spelt OK)

2 tablespoons triple sec, kirsch or cassis (liquor stores)

3 cup blueberries, perfectly dry

Streusel almond topping:

1/2 cup almonds

1/4 cup oil

1/2 cup flour

1/4 cup brown sugar

2 teaspoons cinnamon.

Preheat oven to 350 ºF. Grease and flour a 10” tube pan, or an 11x14 pan.

Cream oil, sugar and eggs in a food processor until light and fluffy. Add all ingredients except blueberries, and pulse 3-4 times, until just combined. Transfer to a mixing bowl. Very gently mix the blueberries in with a spoon.  Pour into the prepared pan. Grind the streusel ingredients in a food processor until the mixture looks like coarse meal. Sprinkle over the cake, using it all up. Bake about one hour, or until a knife inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean.

Levana Kirschenbaum is co-owner of the upscale Levana restaurant, located on the Upper West Side. She is a master chef and a cooking teacher, and gets countless devoted fans for her fearless, practical and nutritious approach to cooking. A native of Morocco, she draws on extensive international culinary influences to develop wonderful whole-foods dishes. She gives weekly cooking demos at her classroom at Lincoln Square Synagogue, and gets cooking demo engagements around the country. She has published "Levana's Table: kosher cooking for everyone", "Levana Cooks Dairy-Free!” and a pamphlet-dvd set based on her demo series called "In Short Order". Go onto her website to find out more about Levana, www.levanacooks.com , or e-mail her at levana@levanacooks.com 

Looking Forward to Passover Cooking

 I grew up in a very modest household but I remember fabulous food at every meal, especially on Pessach. So much so that I actually wait for this time of year to showcase my culinary stars.

So, what’s wrong with me? Instead of looking for Pessach to be over, I wait for it to come around. I can hear all of your concerns about cooking for Pessach: “I have to cook with my hands tied behind my back. Groceries are triple the price.  I don’t have my regular amenities at my disposal. This is such slavery, I’ll need a week’s vacation to recuperate and get back to normal.”  And on and on… Is this your idea of celebrating freedom?

On the other hand, I am thinking, “This week is my gastronomic week.  On Pessach I can go for broke (a life-long habit I am not even trying to shake; why should I? I credit it in great part for making me the cook and hostess that I am).  I get to work with only the best and most seasonal ingredients.  Here is my chance to streamline recipes and ingredient selections.  I get to stay away from bread and rice and ice cream and pizza and other delicious nemeses because they are halachically verboten.” And on and on….

Goodness knows I have a great incentive to lock up that whole week, and come back to a clean house, tanned and rested.  Levana Restaurant runs five Passover programs all over the world; where the food is, by all accounts, a food fantasy come true.

Would you believe I have never been at any of them? And I will not anytime soon.

Call me a masochist if you would like, but I absolutely love the Passover week at my house, and of course, so do my guests.

I will make just one concession; I wish it were not so tiring; but then, the lion’s share of the exhausting part is that we must clean our house thoroughly, whether or not we spend the holidays at home.

This holiday, keep these tips in mind to ease your Pessach cooking.

On Pessach we naturally turn to all fresh seasonal produce and fresh herbs.  

I totally ignore all those dreadful mixes manufactured for our “convenience.” As a result, I am stuck with only the best ingredients.

Now that quinoa has been approved for Pessach, I make tabouleh and pilaf with it, which liberates me from the compulsory potato dish at every meal.

I organize my cooking by making two or three large batches of soup which I then divide and freeze.  Rather than serve the same soup at several meals in a row, I serve a different soup at each seder meal, and then take out the rest of the batch for the last days.

Same goes for condiments, salad dressings and side dishes. I make a variety in bulk so that the menu is different throughout the holiday.

Many Passover desserts hardly suffer from not being made with flour, if at all.  I like to make sweet endings such as fruit compote and fruit molds, brownies, nut cake, nut truffles, and meringues.

When baking with chocolate, keep in mind that the best European chocolate brands come out of the woodwork on Pessach, allowing your chocolate treats to be real delights.

And follow this simple lead: work hard in the kitchen the two days that precede the seder, and the great bulk of your cooking will be done by the time seder night rolls around.

Here is one of my favorite seder meals. Last year I showcased these dishes in my classroom at Lincoln Square Synagogue, Williams Sonoma and Bloomingdales, and ended up with many very happy diners: Tilapia-stuffed seabass with watercress horseradish sauce.  Roasted garlic artichoke soup.  Lamb shanks dry fruit stew.  Roasted asparagus.  Endive and apple salad with walnut dressing.  Almond wine cake with strawberry sauce.

Tilapia-Stuffed Sea Bass

 1 large sea trout, butterflied, about 3 1/2 pounds after cleaning. (other options: salmon, snapper, sea bass, carp, striped bass etcY). head cut in large chunks and reserved.

1 2 pounds tilapia, white fish, cod or scrod fillet, thoroughly boned.

1 large carrot, peeled and sliced.

1 medium onion, quartered.

2 ribs celery, peeled and cut in large chunks.

2 eggs.

1/3 cup olive oil.

dash nutmeg.

salt and pepper to taste.

cooking liquid.

reserved head.

3 cups water.

2 lemons, sliced.

2 tablespoons peppercorns.

4 bay leaves.

salt and pepper to taste.

1 bunch flat parsley.

preheat oven to 375 degrees. clean and dry fish thoroughly. in the food processor, grind all stuffing ingredients to a smooth paste. stuff the fish and fold back. place fish in a pan just big enough to hold it snugly. add all cooking liquid ingredients to the pan. bake 1 hour. let cool completely. strain the liquid over the fish.

serve the fish sliced, chilled, with some of the broth (it will thicken slightly during chilling) over each serving.

Serve it alone or with watercress horseradish sauce (recipe follows)

Watercress Horseradish Sauce

1 small bunch flat parsley

1 bunch watercress, stems and all.

1 cup light mayonnaise

1/4 cup horseradish

salt and pepper to taste

Blanch parsley and watercress just a few seconds in boiling water. Squeeze thoroughly. Transfer to food processor with remaining ingredients and blend till smooth.

Roasted Garlic and Artichoke Soup

4 heads garlic

2 tablespoons olive oil

3 10 ounce boxes frozen artichoke hearts

1 large head celery root, grated

1/3 cup olive oil

3 sprigs fresh rosemary, leaves only

3 sprigs thyme, leaves only

good pinch saffron

1 teaspoon turmeric

salt to taste

ground pepper to taste

1/4 cup chopped chives

Cut off the points of the garlic heads.  Rub with the olive oil.  Wrap in foil, cut sides down, and roast in a preheated 400 degree oven until browned and soft.

Bring 3 quarts of water to boil in a heavy pot. Squeeze the flesh out of the garlic heads into the pot. Add the artichokes, celery root, olive oil, rosemary, thyme, saffron, turmeric and salt to taste. Bring back to boil, then reduce to medium. Cook, covered, 30 minutes. Puree the soup with an immersion blender. Add ground pepper to taste and chives.  Adjust consistency and seasonings.

Lamb Shanks Dry Fruit Stew

8 lamb shanks                     

1/4 cup vegetable oil.

2 large onions, thinly sliced in a food processor

2 tablespoons sugar.

2 pinches saffron.

1 scant teaspoon turmeric.

1 tablespoon grated ginger

3 sticks cinnamon.

1 teaspoon ground pepper.

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon.

1 1/2 cups pitted prunes, packed

1 1/2 cups dry apricots, packed

1 cup slivered almonds, toasted 15 minutes in a 300 degree oven

Put the lamb shanks in a large heavy pot with 2 quarts (8 cuts) water and bring to a boil. Reduce to medium and cook, covered, 2 hours. Meanwhile, heat the oil in a large skillet.  Add the onions and cook, on a medium high flame, until dark brown. Add the sugar and cook 1 more minute.  Add to the lamb, with the saffron, turmeric, ginger, cinnamon sticks and ground pepper, and cook 45 more minutes. Add the ground cinnamon and dry fruit, and cook 15 more minutes. Transfer meat and fruit to a platter. If the liquid in the pot is too thin, reduce at high flame until thickened, and pour over meat. Just before serving, sprinkle with the almonds.

Endive and Apple Salad with Walnut Dressing

3 bunches arugala, washed and thoroughly dried

1 granny smith apple, unpeeled, cored,  cut in quarters and sliced

1/2  small red onion, sliced paper thin.

3 endives, cut in thin wedges

1/3 cup chopped toasted walnuts

Place all salad ingredients in salad bowl, adding the walnuts just before serving. Add about 1 cup walnut dressing, or less, and toss.

Toasted Walnut Dressing

1/3 cup toasted walnuts

1 medium shallot, peeled and quartered.

1/4 cup walnut oil

1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil

1/4 cup red wine vinegar.

1/3 cup dry sherry.

salt and pepper to taste.

Mix all ingredients in blender or food processor, until smooth and perfectly emulsified

POTATO LATKES: CONQUERING THE FEAR OF FRYING

            You may have guessed it: I have nothing nice to say about frying.  Years ago, while fishing for a stubborn schnitzel in the frying pan, I burned my hand.  While a scar reminds me of my aversion to frying, I will be the first to admit that there is no Chanukah without latkes.

            In my catering career and for my friends and family at home, I have made thousands upon thousands of them and always watch them disappear at a flatteringly alarming rate. There is no doubt about it: latkes are a wonderful treat, and once we enter a house where their heavenly fragrance wafts through the kitchen, even a Spartan dieter will sheepishly watch his or her noble  resolution turn to dust.

            Frying (stir-frying does not fall into this category, as it requires very little oil and minimal cooking) is the nemesis of every health-conscious cook, me included. However, on special occasions such as Chanukah that call for fried foods, I follow these guidelines to efficiently and safely fry holiday treats.

            Keep it dry: Too much moisture will steam food instead of frying it, yielding soggy results. Before you begin, be sure to dry whatever you are frying thoroughly with paper towels.

            Keep it thick: Use a firm (not runny) potato batter to form thick patties, which will absorb much less oil than thinner ones. The outside will be crisp and the center will be tender, yet cooked through.

            Keep it hot: Less-than-hot oil will seep into your food, making it indelibly greasy.  If you add oil to the pan while frying, chances are the oil was not hot enough to begin with.  If you wait for the oil to get hot, you will need to add very little, if any, to finish frying an entire batch of food.

            How hot is hot enough?  Drop a smidgen of batter into the oil. If it sizzles and rises to the surface, the oil is hot and ready for frying.

            Keep it steady: Do not crowd the pan. First of all, you will make handling the food more difficult. Also, crowding will bring down the temperature of the oil. Adding what you are frying at steady intervals ensures that the oil has time to return to the desired temperature.

            Keep it lean: Rather than using spatulas or slotted spoons which sop up unnecessary oil, work with two forks when removing items from the pan. Lift each fried item with a fork on each side, and hold it vertically for a second or two over the frying pan: You will be surprised by how much oil drips off it. Immediately place the items on a plate lined with several layers of paper towels, which will absorb any remaining unwanted grease.

            Keep it white:  Peeled potatoes oxidate when exposed to air and turn an unappealing gray color.  So when making latkes (or a potato kugel), get everything ready before your peel and grate the potatoes, adding them immediately to the otherwise finished batter.

Keep it fresh and hot: If you are entertaining a large group, it won’t be enormous fun spending the afternoon frying while everyone is having a good time.  If you must fry in advance, follow all the above guidelines, but fry each item until it is ninety percent cooked through, no more. Store it in a shallow pan in one layer. You can also place the latkes in the pan vertically, like a deck of cards; you will be able to fit quite a few in a pan in this position (again, one layer). Cover tightly. Refrigerate or freeze, depending on how long in advance you are preparing the dish. Reheat uncovered, at about 350*F, for fifteen to twenty minutes, or until heated through.

Levana’s Perfect Potato Latkes      (yields 24 latke).

             FromLevana Cooks Dairy-free!

My favorite experience with dairy-free cooking came a couple years ago, when WB-11, the popular New York television station, invited me to appear on its morning show. The producers had heard of my wizardry with non-dairy dishes and wanted to do a blind tasting in which three of my dairy-free desserts would face off against their dairy counterparts. Talk about a triumph: The results of that little presentation were astounding. The tasters found that one of the desserts (an apricot mousse) tasted virtually identical made either way, while the other two (a cheesecake and a chocolate hazelnut mousse torte) were more delicious made without dairy products.

I believe that anyone, even the novice cook, can prepare virtually any dish without dairy products and come up with something delicious. I can, and I know that most other people can, too. But a lot of people don’t accept a sweeping statement like that. They believe that any meal that is traditionally prepared with milk or butter can never be as good if those ingredients are not present. This book proves just how wrong this assumption is – and the feeling of liberation it will give cooks no longer faced with major recipe restrictions will be wonderful to watch. How do I know this? Because over the past 29 years, as a cooking teacher, cookbook author and as owner of a bakery, a kosher catering business, and Levana Restaurant in Manhattan, I’ve learned a thing or two about dairy-free cooking. I had to because, like 50 million other Americans, I am mostly lactose-intolerant. And like my clients and an estimated 25 percent of American Jews, I observe the kosher dietary laws. This means that it is verbotten to mix meat and dairy in the same meal. Thus, in one fell swoop, I am recasting vast numbers of dishes and many delicious desserts which had been previously barred from many meals. Observing kosher requirements implicitly means I make sure not to use any of the products that purport to be dairy-free yet still contain traces of whey, butter and other banned ingredients, which suits the lactose-intolerant community as well.

The truth is we all love dairy products, but that love is too often unrequited by our religion, our bodies, or both. My family, friends, customers and students are always clamoring for alternatives that are free of the offending ingredients. Although I give cooking demonstrations on every imaginable culinary topic, I get the most requests for dairy-free cooking.

It is important to note that I do not use simple substitutions. For years, I have experimented and played with ingredients that most cooks have ignored, such as soy and all other non-dairy (rice, oat, grain, almond, coconut) milks, other soy products, nut butters, flours, and alternative sweeteners. For example, many kosher cooks feel they must use non-dairy creamer instead of milk products, or margarine instead of butter, and just accept the compromised flavor. I don’t think that’s tolerable at all, and so I have a different approach – one that uses only natural products. My number one theme is to demolish the notion that someone cooking with restrictions must rely on substitute ingredients that are “sort of” the same. No. Every ingredient I use stands on its own merits as a delicious, natural, wholesome addition to a recipe that a reader may not have thought possible. Lest you misconstrue the purpose of this book, I hasten to add that it doesn’t provide an excuse for having a field day emulating rich junk foods such as cheeseburgers, salami-and-cheese sandwiches, pepperoni-and-cheese pizza and Goodness knows what other calamity. I have no complicity whatsoever with the fast-food crowd. My repertoire is simple yet politically correct though and through, from a nutritional as well as a kosher standpoint. So, I invite you to enjoy my dairy-free renditions of your favorite treats without fear or guilt!

Sources: Rather than give you a long tedious list of sources for all non-dairy ingredients, I am referring you once for all to a wonderful book, Non-dairy Made Easy, just recently published, compiled by Alisa Fleming, who also started a major non-dairy site, www.GoDairyFree.com. As we share a passion for good and healthy non-dairy cuisine, it was only natural that our paths would cross. There is no consideration Alisa hasn’t addressed. Each item’s features are extensively itemized wherever applicable: whether it is organic, kosher, vegan, gluten-free, soy-free, dairy equipment, etc…, in short, everything you need to know: It’s all in!

Apple nut muffins

 his recipe gives you an unlimited opportunity to play with sweeteners, fruits, nuts, and flours (see below), making endless permutations and creating as large and nutritious a selection of muffins as you will ever need. See how it works?  Eating this kind of muffin is actually a good kind of weakness, so don’t worry if your kids clamor for more!

 Makes 12 to 15 medium muffins

Vegetable spray

1 cup soy milk or any other non dairy milk (rice, oat, almond, grain)

2 large eggs

1/3 cup vegetable oil

1 cup dark brown sugar

2 Granny Smith apples, unpeeled, cored and grated coarse in a food processor

 2 cup old-fashioned oats

3 cups all purpose flour

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup raisins

1/2 cup chopped walnuts or pecans

1 teaspoon cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 375ºF. Spray a 12-cup muffin tin with vegetable spray.

Combine the milk, eggs, oil, brown sugar and apples, and mix thoroughly. In another bowl, combine the oats, flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, raisins, and nuts. Add the dry mixture to the milk mixture. Combine gently but thoroughly with a spoon, taking care not to over mix, which would toughen the batter. Pour the batter into the prepared muffin pans. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean.

All substitutions in equal amounts:

• For the all purpose flour, substitute whole wheat pastry or spelt flour.

• For the oil, substitute coconut or flax oil, tehina or any natural nut butter.

• For raisins, substitute dried cranberries or other chopped dry fruit (prunes, apricots, dates, figs, etc…).

• For grated apple, substitute grated carrot or zucchini.

• For walnuts, substitute almonds or pumpkin, flax, sesame or sunflower seeds.

• For brown sugar, substitute sucanat, rapadura, date sugar, or malt sugar (health food stores).

• For cinnamon, substitute ground ginger, cardamom or allspice.

• For rolled oats, substitute barley, quinoa, spelt, soy or other flakes.

• If you are egg-restricted, see box on eggs (PP)

To make a loaf: This batter will make a delicious bread loaf. Bake in a greased loaf pan in a preheated 350 ºF oven, 45 minutes to one hour, until a knife inserted in the center of the loaf comes out clean.

Babka.

This yeasted pastry bears an affectionate name in every language (brioche, kugelhopf, kokosh, etc…) and varies only slightly in preparation from one culture to another, but whatever you call it, it is always fabulous, even without the butter and the milk. Do not hesitate to double, even triple the recipe, as it freezes very well.

Makes 8 servings

1 envelope dry yeast.

1/4 cup warm water

1/3 cup sugar or honey

2 3/4 cups flour, plus a little more if needed

1/4 cup oil, plus a little more for brushing

1/2 cup soy or other non-dairy milk (rice, oat, grain, almond)

1 egg

1/3 teaspoon salt

Topping (optional)

1 tablespoon oil

1/4 cup flour

3 tablespoons sugar

Mix the yeast, water and sugar in a cup and let the mixture come to a bubble, a minute or two. Put all the other ingredients in a mixing bowl. Add the yeast mixture and combine. Transfer to your dough maker and knead 10 minutes, or knead by hand. Let the dough rise, covered, in a warm draft-free place one hour.

Preheat the oven to 350 ºF.

On a very lightly floured board or counter, roll out the dough into a thin, 20- by 8-inch rectangle. Brush the whole surface very lightly with oil. Sprinkle or spread the filling on the whole surface (recipes follow). Roll very tightly. Transfer to a greased loaf pan. Mix the topping ingredients, and sprinkle over the babka (If not using the topping, simply brush with a mixture of egg and water). Bake 35 to 40 minutes, until golden.

Fillings:

Chocolate:  Melt 2/3 cup very good quality real chocolate chips with 1 tablespoon oil.

Cinnamon-raisin: In a food processor, process until coarsely ground: 1/2 cup golden raisins, 1/3 cup walnuts, 1/4 cup brown sugar, 1-2 teaspoons cinnamon.

Jam: 1 cup good black currant, strawberry or raspberry preserves thinned with 2-3 tablespoons orange juice.

Red pepper and zucchini frittata.

Frittatas are nothing more than giant deep-dish omelets, cut into wedges. Although the principle is always the same – pour a mixture of milk and eggs over sautéed vegetables, start it on a stovetop and finish it in the oven- the variations are endless. Use any filling that appeals to you, combining 2-3 items: sautéed leeks, mushrooms, spinach, kale etc…; grated “Vegan-Rella” cheese; boiled cubed potatoes; cubed smoked turkey or cooked chicken; minced fresh herbs such as chives, dill, parsley, chervil. Frittatas are delicious hot or cold, and make a great main course as well as great hors d’oeuvres, cut in small squares.

Makes 6 main course servings.

1/4 cup olive oil

1 large onion, diced small

4 cloves garlic, minced

1 large red bell pepper, diced small

3 thin zucchini, diced small

3 tablespoons flour, any flour

1 cup soy or any non-dairy milk (rice, almond, grain, oat)

1/4 cup dry vermouth (liquor stores) or sake (health food stores)

1/4 cup basil leaves, packed, chopped

Good pinch nutmeg

Salt and pepper to taste

8 eggs, lightly beaten

Preheat the oven to 375 ºF.

Heat the oil in an oven-proof skillet, about 10 inches in diameter. Add the onion, garlic, pepper and zucchini, and sauté until all liquids evaporate. In a mixing bowl, whisk together the flour and the milk until smooth. Add the remaining ingredients and whisk. Pour uniformly over the sautéed mixture in the skillet and cook on a medium-low flame about 5 minutes. Transfer to the oven and bake another 12 to 15 minutes, until puffy and barely set. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Corn and Salmon Chowder

Funky meets elegant. With a good baguette and a leafy salad, this chowder makes a different and delicious meal in itself. Try your best to use fresh corn. Scraping off the kernels couldn’t be easier. Stand each ear on a plate and use a sharp knife to scrape off the kernels, cutting as close to the cob as you can.

Box: Anchovies: Don’t tell your guests that this dish, or any dish for that matter, contains anchovies until after they polish it off. The anchovies disperse in the soup and leave no trace of their controversial heritage except for a deep, smoky flavor. I’m reminded of a wonderful headline from The Philadelphia Inquirer: “Anchovies: A blessing if disguised.”

Box: Saffron. Saffron threads are the stamen of the crocus flower, and can be harvested only by hand, hence their reputation for being so costly. The good news is, you can ignore all those tiny, exorbitantly priced vials, and get yourself an ounce box at any specialty food store, which will be about twenty times cheaper and will last you about a year!

Makes about 12 servings.

1/4 cup olive oil

3 leeks, white parts only, washed thoroughly and sliced

1 medium onion, quartered

4 ribs celery, peeled

6 large cloves garlic

1 small bunch flat parsley, stems and all, minced

2 quarts (8 cups) water

2 cups dry white wine

1/4 cup packed anchovies, rinsed 

4 cups corn kernels, preferably fresh, from about 6 ears of corn (use frozen if necessary)

2 good pinches saffron  

6 bay leaves

Salt (you might not need any. If you do, add more rinsed anchovies) and freshly ground black pepper to taste

2 cups soy or other non-dairy milk (rice, grain, oat, almond)

Good pinch nutmeg

Good pinch cayenne

3 pounds salmon filet cut in 1-inch cubes

1 pound mock crab flakes (optional, but delicious. A natural fish product), chopped

2 cups Tofutti brand soy sour cream

Heat the oil in a large heavy pot. In a food processor, in batches if necessary, coarsely grind the leeks, onions, celery, garlic, and parsley. Add the ground mixture to the hot oil and sauté until translucent. Add the water, wine, anchovies, corn, saffron, bay leaves, salt, and pepper, and bring to a boil. Reduce to medium and cook, covered, for about 30 minutes. Add the soy milk, nutmeg, and cayenne, and cook until just hot, but do not boil or the mixture might curdle. Using an immersion blender dipped directly into the pot, purée about one-third of the soup, leaving the rest chunky. Add the salmon cubes and the mock crab, if using, and sour cream, and cook for 1 to 2 more minutes, stirring gently to incorporate all additions. Serve hot.

Pizza Puttanesca.

I used to have qualms about making non-dairy pizza at my demos, fearing my students might find my suggestion slightly disingenuous, until one of them recently exclaimed to me vehemently: “Why can’t we find cheeseless pizza in the States, just as we do in Europe? Where is it written that pizza must always have cheese?” That just did it. That’s right: Traditionally, only a few pizza varieties are topped with cheese, or even tomatoes, and there are quite a few wonderful toppings you can choose from: olives, anchovies, onions, artichoke hearts, eggs, roasted peppers, mushrooms, meatballs, you just name it. I will offer my favorite topping (which doubles as a great pasta sauce), then let you use your imagination, including adding a cup or more of grated “Vegan-Rella” cheese if you like. Either way nothing will beat the fun and flavor of homemade, nothing! In a pinch use some store-bought frozen and thawed pizza dough, and just make the sauce.

Makes a dozen servings.

Dough:

2 tablespoons dry yeast

2 cups warm water

1 tablespoon sugar

5 cups flour

1 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup olive oil

Mix the yeast, water and sugar in a bowl. Let the mixture “proof” about 5 minutes, it will start bubbling. Add the remaining ingredients. Turn out onto a lightly floured board and knead by hand or in a dough maker about 10 minutes. Cover the dough and let it rise about 1 hour in a draft-free place. Roll out the dough very thin (about 1 large greased cookie sheet or 2 greased 16” round pans), leaving a slightly thicker rim all around.

Preheat the oven to 475 ºF. Spread the sauce (recipe follows) on the dough, leaving the rim blank. Bake about 15 minutes. If using the cheese, add it in the last 5 minutes of baking. Cut in wedges and serve hot.

Puttanesca sauce:

1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil

1 large onion, chopped

8 large cloves garlic, minced

1 cup dry white wine

1 cup sun-dried tomatoes, briefly soaked in warm water, and cut into strips

3 cups canned crushed tomatoes

1/4 cup capers

1/2 cup oil-cured black olives, halved

A dozen anchovies, thoroughly rinsed

1/2 cup basil leaves, minced

2 tablespoons oregano

Good pinch red pepper flakes

Salt and freshly cracked pepper to taste (taste the sauce before you add any salt)

Optional: About 1 cup grated “Vegan-Rella” to taste

Heat the oil in a heavy pan. Add the onions and fry until translucent. Add the garlic and fry 3 more minutes. Reduce the heat and add all remaining ingredients. Cook covered on a medium flame about 10 minutes.

Foccacia: Roll the dough about 1/2 inch thick and place in a greased cookie sheet. Brush lightly with olive oil, and sprinkle with sea salt, minced fresh onion or garlic (optional) and chopped fresh rosemary. Poke the dough all over with your finger to make indentations. Bake in a preheated 400º F about 20 minutes.

Tilapia stuffed with spinach and pine nuts

This stuffing is so fabulous you might consider using it for chicken breasts as well or, quite simply, as a sauce for pasta, thinned with a little non dairy milk or white wine. Do not skip the pine nuts as they add a wonderful layer of flavor. For a more dramatic presentation, you might want to consider stuffing a whole large fish such as trout or bass, and proceed with the recipe (in this case, bake one hour). If you are serving this dish as a first course, simply halve each roll.

Makes 8 main course servings.

Spinach stuffing:

1/4 cup olive oil

1 large onion, quartered

4 large shallots, peeled

6 large cloves garlic, peeled

1 red pepper, seeded and quartered

1 small bunch parsley

1 large tomato, peeled, seeded and chopped

1 10-ounce box frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed thoroughly dry

1/4 cup basil leaves, packed, chopped

1/3 cup pine nuts, toasted 10 minutes in a 300 ºF oven

1/2 cup “Vegan-Rella” cheddar cheese

Good pinch nutmeg

Salt and pepper to taste

8 fillets of tilapia, about 6 ounces each

Vegetable spray

paprika

Preheat the oven to 375 ºF.

Heat the oil in a heavy skillet. In a food processor, coarsely grind the onion, shallots, garlic and parsley, and add to the skillet. Sauté until most of the liquids evaporate. Add the tomato and fry one more minute, until all liquids evaporate. Transfer the mixture to a bowl. Add the remaining stuffing ingredients and mix thoroughly. Stuff each fillet with some of the mixture and roll tightly. Place the fillet seam side down in a baking dish just large enough to hold all the fillets in one layer, so the stuffing doesn’t ooze out. Repeat with the remaining fillets and stuffing (you might have a little stuffing leftover). Spray the rolls with vegetable spray and sprinkle with paprika. Bake about 30 minutes, or a little longer, until the fish flakes easily. Serve hot, or at room temperature.

Lemon coconut tart

Another wonderful treat I created with the help of tapioca flour. And of course how can I miss, pairing lemon and coconut? You will love to make this tart, because you can both bake the crust fully and make the filling even two-three days ahead of time, and assemble it on party day. Topping it with toasted coconut intensify the coconut flavor and gives it a dramatic presentation. Have you noticed that coconut lovers cannot imagine there is anyone out there who is not crazy about coconut?

Pie dough:

1/2 cup natural non-hydrogenated margarine (health-food stores), at room temperature

1/2 cup sugar

Pinch salt

2 eggs

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1 tablespoon lemon zest

2 cups flour

Lemon coconut filling:

1 cup sugar

1/3 cup tapioca flour

Pinch salt

2 tablespoons lemon zest

1/2 cup fresh lemon juice, strained

3 tablespoons rum or brandy

2 eggs

1 15-ounce can coconut milk

1 1/2 cups sweetened grated coconut

1/2 cup sweetened grated coconut , toasted about 12 minutes in a 300 ºF oven

Preheat the oven to 350 ºF.

Make the pie shell: With an electric mixer, cream the margarine, sugar and salt until light. Add eggs one at a time and cream until light and fluffy. Add the vanilla extract, zest and flour and mix just a few more seconds. Spread the dough uniformly in an 11-inch spring form pan, coming up the sides. Crimp the edges all around with 2 fingers. Pierce the bottom all over with a fork. Bake 40 minutes or until golden brown. Let the crust cool completely.

Make the filling: Put a small pot of water to boil. Reduce the heat to low, and keep the water at a simmer. Place a bowl on top of the water, and put in the sugar, tapioca, salt, zest, lemon juice and rum, whisking (beating with an electric mixer will work very well, too). When hot, add the eggs, whisking constantly until thick. Add the coconut milk and whisk only until the mixture looks smooth. Take the bowl off the double boiler, and stir in the coconut. Let the mixture cool completely, and pour into the baked crust. Chill. Sprinkle with the toasted coconut just before serving.

Creme caramel.

We grew up with this very unpretentious and delightful dessert, which my mother used to whip up on lazy Sunday afternoons. Caramel, eggs and milk are practically all it takes. I add non dairy milk powder and a little oil to augment the milk fats in the dish and make it come close to the cream-rich original. You won’t be able to discern the difference! The trick with this dish and all egg-based dishes is to bake it until just barely set, as further heating would toughen the custard.

Makes about 10 servings.

Caramel:

3/4 cup sugar

1/4 cup water

Batter:

4 cups whole soy or other non-dairy milk (rice, oat, grain, almond), heated to just below boiling

1 cup soy or rice milk powder

1/4 cup vegetable oil

1/4 cup white corn syrup

1/4 cup sugar

2 tablespoons vanilla extract

8 eggs

Preheat the oven to 350 ºF.

Make the caramel: Heat the sugar and water on a medium-low flame in a small saucepan, undisturbed, for about 5 minutes. It will turn a deep amber brown. Immediately turn off the heat (as sugar could go from just done to burned in no time) and very carefully pour into a round ring mold or 8 ramekins. Quickly swirl the sugar in the molds to let it cover the bottoms and come about half an inch up the sides.

Make the batter: Place all ingredients in a blender and blend until completely smooth (or place all the ingredients in a glass bowl and use an immersion blender). Pour the mixture into the mold or ramekins. Place the mold or ramekins in a baking pan containing just enough hot water to come up one third of the height of the molds. Bake about 40 minutes. Let the dessert cool. Unmold by loosening the sides with a knife, then putting a rimmed dish slightly larger than the mold against the opening and flip onto the dish. The caramel will arrange itself beautifully around the custard.

Variations:

Lemon crème caramel: Reduce the milk to 31/2 cups and add 1/2 cup lemon juice and 2 tablespoons fresh lemon zest.

Coffee crème caramel: Add 2 tablespoons instant coffee powder to the batter and 3 tablespoons rum or brandy.

Chocolate crème caramel: add 1/4 cup cocoa powder and 1/3 cup semisweet real chocolate chips to the milk while it is still very warm to dissolve them completely.

 The article  above originally appeared online in the OU’s Shabbat Shalom newsletter (www.ou.org). Reprinted with permission

FRENCH ONION SOUP

Please do NOT buy the cheeses already grated or shredded, they are tasteless; buy chunks and grate them, it only takes a minute. Use the food processor to slice the onions and shallots and mince the garlic.

1/3 CUP EXTRA VIRGIN OLIVE OIL.

2 LARGE ONIONS, SLICED VERY THIN.

4 LARGE SHALLOTS, SLICED VERY THIN.

2 LARGE LEEKS, WHITE PARTS ONLY, SLICED VERY THIN

6 LARGE CLOVES GARLIC , MINCED.

3 TABLESPOONS SUGAR.

2 CUPS DRY RED WINE (LIQUOR STORES)

1/3 CUP DARK MISO PASTE (HEALTH FOOD STORES)

6 SPRIGS THYME, LEAVES ONLY.

2 1/2 QUARTS (10 CUPS) WATER.

1 CUP GRATED SWISS CHEESE.

1 CUP SMOKED CHEESE, CUT IN SMALL CHUNKS.

1 CUP GRATED PARMESAN.

GOOD PINCH NUTMEG.

SALT AND FRESHLY GRATED GROUND PEPPER. (USE THE SALT SPARINGLY IF AT ALL, THE CHEESES AND THE MISO ARE ALREADY SALTY)

A DOZEN SLICES BAGUETTE, CUT ON BIAS, TOASTED. (375 DEGREES OVEN, FOR ABOUT 20 MINUTES, UNTIL LIGHT BROWN)

HEAT THE OIL IN A HEAVY POT, AND IN IT FRY THE ONIONS, SHALLOTS, LEEKS AND GARLIC ON A MEDIUM FLAME, ABOUT 30 MINUTES, UNTIL DARK. ADD THE SUGAR AND COOK TWO MORE MINUTES UNTIL CARAMELIZED. ADD WINE, MISO, THYME, WATER AND COOK ANOTHER 30 MN. ADD THE CHEESES, NUTMEG, SALT AND PEPPER, AND COOK ANOTHER MINUTE, UNTIL ALL MELTED. ADJUST CONSISTENCY AND SEASONINGS.

TO SERVE: POUR INTO SOUP BOWLS AND FLOAT ONE SLICE BAGUETTE TOAST IN EACH BOWL. ABOUT 12 SERVINGS.

STRIPED BASS STUFFED WITH SPINACH AND FETA.

1/4 CUP OLIVE OIL.

1 LARGE ONION, QUARTERED.

4 LARGE SHALLOTS, PEELED.

6 LARGE CLOVES GARLIC, PEELED.

1 RED PEPPER, SEEDED AND QUARTERED.

1 SMALL BUNCH PARSLEY.

1 LARGE TOMATO, PEELED, SEEDED AND CHOPPED.

1 BOX FROZEN SPINACH, THAWED AND SQUEEZED THOROUGHLY DRY.

1/4 CUP BASIL LEAVES, PACKED, CHOPPED.

1/2 CUP FETA CHEESE, CRUMBLED.

PINCH NUTMEG

SALT AND PEPPER TO TASTE.

1 5 POUND STRIPED BASS, OR 2 MEDIUM, BUTTERFLIED, HEADS OFF, ALL BONES OUT, THOROUGHLY WASHED AND PATTED DRY.

1 TABLESPOON OLIVE OIL.

PREHEAT OVEN TO 375 DEGREES. HEAT THE OIL IN A HEAVY SKILLET. GRIND THE ONION, SHALLOTS, GARLIC AND PARSLEY COARSELY IN THE FOOD PROCESSOR AND ADD TO THE SKILLET. SAUTE UNTIL MOST OF THE LIQUIDS EVAPORATE. ADD THE TOMATO AND FRY ONE MORE MINUTE, TILL ALL LIQUIDS EVAPORATE. TRANSFER MIXTURE TO BOWL. ADD REMAINING INGREDIENTS AND MIX THOROUGHLY. STUFF THE FISH WITH MIXTURE  AND FOLD TO CLOSE. PLACE IN BAKING PAN JUST LARGE ENOUGH TO HOLD THE FISH. SCORE THE FISH ON BOTH SIDES AND RUB IT WITH THE OIL. BAKE ABOUT 30 MINUTES, UNTIL THE SKIN LOOKS GOLDEN AND CRISP. SERVE HOT.

BERRY  SAUCE

1 12 OUNCE BAG UNSWEETENED FROZEN RASPBERRIES.

1 CUP CRANBERRY JUICE.

1/4 CUP CRÈME DE CASSIS (LIQUOR STORES: LEROUX HAS A GOOD SUPERVISION)

1/4 CUP FRESH LEMON JUICE.

1 TABLESPOON CORN STARCH, MIXED WITH A LITTLE WATER UNTIL DISSOLVED.

BRING ALL BUT LAST INGREDIENT TO A BOIL. ADD CORN STARCH MIXTURE AND COOK, STIRRING, UNTIL JUST THICKENED. COOL COMPLETELY BEFORE SERVING.

                 The Art of the Brunch

Chefs are a funny bunch. Their idea of a day off is not, as you might think, staying away from the kitchen.  Au contraire! I am always amazed when the chef at my restaurant describes the meal he and his wife enjoyed at a different restaurant on his day off or of the dinner party he prepared for friends.

One of my recurrent dreams, as a restaurant owner and cooking teacher, is to open a kosher version of Sarabeth’s Kitchen, the popular chain of restaurants which utilize the best ingredients and serve renowned brunches.

 Why do I love the concept of brunch so much? Beside the absence of meat dishes, the kosher brunch dining experience encompasses absolutely everything else at one time.

I call it brunch a toute heure (brunch anytime) And so egalitarian: the lines between breakfast, lunch and dinner are totally blurred, and we are left with one continuous and wonderful meal, with infinite variations, available in short order at all times of day.

Popular brunch dishes include crepes, muffins, soups, smoothies, omelets, salads, and fish. I would go as far as saying that during the week, brunch-style foods are the bulk of my family’s diet at home.

For those of us who tolerate little or no dairy, brunch dishes can be adjusted to include pareve variations made with soy-based products.

The benefit of hosting a brunch is that this type of meal can be as modest or as glorious as you like, there is ample room to adjust the caliber.  In my catering days, I remember fabulous brunches we created—everything from wedding brunches to small get-togethers in private homes.

Another reason why I love brunch is that these dishes share a valuable common point: they can be made at a moment’s notice.  A simple and stunning brunch menu may consist of zucchini bread, fresh fruit smoothies, salmon tartare, spinach frittata, and ricotta cream with berries, all of which can be prepared in a little over an hour.    

I learned of the beauty behind brunch foods many years ago when I picked my son up from a play date at a friend’s house and asked him (in earshot of the mother!) what he had for dinner.

His answer was: “Mommy, it was so much fun. For dinner we had breakfast—pancakes!” His point was clear: the uncomplicated, yet delicious comfort foods we crave—pancakes, eggs, potato hash, quick breads—and other fabulous brunch dishes are always a few minutes away.

I am including a few of my favorite brunch treats, some classics adaptable to our contemporary palate and various diets. The following brunch menu will take you slightly over one hour from start to finish, and will serve 8 guests generously.

ZUCCHINI BREAD

3 CUPS FLOUR.

3/4 CUP SUGAR.

½ CUP CHOPPED WALNUTS.

1 TABLESPOON BAKING POWDER.

1 TEASPOON SALT.

4 EGGS

1/2 CUP OIL.

2 CUPS GRATED ZUCCHINI, PACKED

1 TABLESPOON GRATED  LEMON ZEST

PREHEAT OVEN TO 350 DEGREES.

THOROUGHLY COMBINE FLOUR, SUGAR, WALNUTS, BAKING POWDER AND SALT IN A MIXING BOWL. THOROUGHLY COMBINE EGGS, OIL, ZUCCHINI AND LEMON PEEL IN ANOTHER BOWL. COMBINE BOTH MIXTURES THOROUGHLY BUT MIX ONLY UNTIL COMBINED . OVERMIXING WILL CAUSE  THE BATTER TO BE TOO TOUGH.

POUR INTO A GREASED TUBE PAN AND BAKE FOR ABOUT 1 HOUR, OR UNTIL A KNIFE INSERTED IN THE CENTER COMES OUT CLEAN

NOTE: MUFFINS: THIS BATTER WILL MAKE YOU PERFECT MUFFINS. POUR INTO GREASED MUFFIN PAN AND BAKE ABOUT 20 TO 30 MINUTES. 12 LARGE MUFFINS OR 18 MEDIUM MUFFINS 

FRUIT SMOOTHIES

BASICALLY, IT CAN BE ANYTHING YOU WANT THROWN IN A BLENDER, BUT HERE IS A TIP THAT WILL TURN YOUR SMOOTHIES FROM GOOD TO FABULOUS: USE FROZEN FRUIT. IN ONE FELL SWOOP, YOU ARE USING FRUIT YOU HAVE ON HAND IN YOUR FREEZER, WHICH IS MUCH SUPERIOR TO FRESH, AND YOU GET ABSOLUTELY NO ICE AND ALL FLAVOR.

1 1/2 CUPS YOGURT, VANILLA OR PLAIN, OR 1/2 SLAB SILKEN TOFU

1 1/2 CUPS FRUIT JUICE (APPLE, ORANGE, PINEAPPLE, CRANBERRY

3 CUPS MIXED FROZEN FRUIT (CHOSE FROM ANYTHING YOU MIGHT HAVE: BANANAS, BERRIES, MELON, GRAPES, ETC….)

WHIZ MIXTURE IN THE BLENDER AT HIGH SPEED, ADDING A LITTLE JUICE OR COLD WATER TO THIN IT IF NECESSARY. MAKES 6-7 CUPS.

SALMON TARTARE.

1 1/4 POUNDS SALMON FILET. NO SKIN NO BONES, MINCED

1/4 CUP MINCED RED ONION

1/4 CUP TINY CAPERS

1/4 CUP FINELY CHOPPED DILL

2 TABLESPOONS RED HOT SAUCE

2 TABLESPOONS VODKA

2 TABLESPOONS TOASTED SESAME OIL

2 TABLESPOONS OLIVE OIL

1 TABLESPOON CRACKED PEPPER

3 TABLESPOONS SOY SAUCE

1/4 CUP LIME OR LEMON JUICE

1 TABLESPOON FINELY GRATED GINGER

MIX ALL INGREDIENTS. LET MARINATE AN HOUR TO TWO HOURS BEFORE SERVING. SERVE OVER GRATED DAIKON, OR ON SMALL ROUNDS OF PUMPERNICKEL BREAD.

SPINACH FRITTATA 

1/4 CUP OLIVE OIL

6 LARGE CLOVES GARLIC

1 MEDIUM ONION, QUARTERED

2 LARGE BUNCHES SPINACH OR SWISS CHARD, LEAVES ONLY

1/2 CUP BASIL LEAVES, PACKED

1/2 CUP PARSLEY, LEAVES AND STEMS, PACKED

12 EGGS

2 CUPS MILK (PAREVE: SOY MILK)

1 CUP GRATED PARMESAN OR ANY OTHER STRONG CHEESE (PAREVE: 1 CUP TOFUTTI CREAM CHEESE)

SALT AND PEPPER TO TASTE

GOOD PINCH NUTMEG

PREHEAT OVEN TO 450 DEGREES.

START BY SELECTING A LARGE NON STICK SKILLET. HEAT THE OIL IN THE SKILLET, MINCE THE GARLIC AND ONION IN A FOOD PROCESSOR, AND ADD TO THE HOT OIL, SAUTE JUST A MINUTE OR 2. CHOP THE SPINACH, BASIL AND PARSLEY IN A FOOD PROCESSOR, AND ADD TO THE SKILLET. SAUTEE UNTIL ALL LIQUIDS EVAPORATE, JUST A MINUTE OR 2. IN A MIXING BOWL, BEAT THE EGGS WITH THE MILK, CHEESE AND SEASONINGS, AND ADD EVENLY ON TOP OF THE SPINACH MIXTURE. COOK ABOUT 5 MINUTES ON A MEDIUM HIGH FLAME, UNTIL THE BOTTOM LOOKS FIRM. TRANSFER TO THE OVEN AND COOK ANOTHER 5 MINUTES. CUT IN WEDGES AND SERVE HOT, OR AT ROOM TEMPERATURE

RICOTTA CREAM WITH BERRIES

3 CUPS RICOTTA CHEESE

3 CUPS VANILLA YOGURT

4 CUPS MIXED BERRIES, LARGER ONES CUT UP                              

3 TABLESPOONS CREME DE CASSIS (LIQUOR STORES)

1/4 CUP MAPLE SYRUP OR HONEY

1 TABLESPOON BALSAMIC VINEGAR

1 CUP GRANOLA (STORE-BOUGHT OK. THE BAKER IS I THINK THE BEST BRAND, AND WIDELY AVAILABLE)

MIX THE RICOTTA AND YOGURT IN A BOWL. MIX THE BERRIES, CASSIS, MAPLE SYRUP AND VINEGAR IN ANOTHER BOWL. PREPARE 8 WINE OR MARTINI GLASSES. DIVIDE THE RICOTTA MIXTURE AMONG THE GLASSES. TOP WITH THE BERRY MIXTURE. SPRINKLE THE GRANOLA OVER ALL

PAREVE: INSTEAD OF THE RICOTTA AND VANILLA YOGURT, MIX TOGETHER, IN A BLENDER OR FOOD PROCESSOR:

1 POUND SILKEN TOFU, 1 8 OUNCE CONTAINER TOFUTTI CREAM CHEESE, 1 12 OUNCE CONTAINER TOFUTTI SOUR CREAM, 1/4 CUP SUGAR. PROCEED EXACTLY AS ABOVE

The Shidduch of Flavors & Texture:

 A Yom Tov Feast

Like many of us, I entertain quite often, and it should come as no surprise to you that I find planning the menu almost half the battle. When I plan a festive menu, I ask myself what flavors will knock their socks off. Yes, I mean flavors, not what fancy cuts of meat or what expensive fish or what magnificent cake. I like this approach for several reasons, of which I will mention just a couple: First and foremost, I am a food “chemist,” and zeroing in on the perfect shidduch of flavors and textures is a triumph I have been sharing with thousands guests and demo students for many years running; secondly, putting the emphasis on workmanship rather than on costliness showcases the artist in you; and third, when using the very best and most seasonable, in a simple, natural and unfussy way, you have the guarantee of a sumptuous meal, at no extra cost. Are you still missing that bison rib, that duck breast, that venison, that rack of lamb, that sea bass? Simply order it when you next go with someone you love to… well, you know what I recommend! I just had the most outrageous venison sausages and a wild mushroom appetizer at Levana Restaurant, and my guest had a bison rib, and was swooning. It was a fabulous treat, but a restaurant treat, and home must look and taste like home.

I trust you will find that the following menu will bear out my initial premise: a glorious meal made from glorious yet simple ingredients. Beautiful tomatoes and fresh herbs are your whole commitment to this wonderful soup. A couple days notice is all you need to secure a capon, in my eyes the king of the poultry world, and one of my favorite meats to make for company. Buy an ounce of saffron that will last you the whole year from specialty food stores or Indian, Italian or Indian markets, rather than get ripped off with those tiny exorbitantly prices vials sold at supermarkets and Korean produce stores. Juniper berries are the ingredient responsible for the fabrication of gin, and are easily found in health food or specialty stores. It makes a world of difference what chocolate you use. Chocolate bars or blocks that list sugar first and cocoa second have very little chocolate, so stay away from them with a vengeance. Callebaut is my favorite brand, but in the absence of this brand or any other fancy one, even the institutional (price clubs, supermarket) real chocolate products will yield very good results.   

ROASTED TOMATO SOUP                    

 5 pounds tomatoes (7-8 large, or 20 plum tomatoes), split across

3 heads garlic, points sliced off, leaving the cloves exposed

4 medium purple onions, peeled and split across

3 red peppers, halved and seeded                                              

1/4 cup olive oil

coarse sea salt to taste

 10 cups water (2 1/2 quarts)

1/4 cup olive oil

1 cup dry white wine (not cooking wine)             

2 cups tomato juice

1/4 cup tomato paste

1 tablespoon paprika

4 sprigs rosemary, leaves only, chopped

6 sprigs thyme, leaves only

2 good pinches saffron threads

 freshly ground pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Mix the first set of ingredients in a bowl, spread on a cookie sheet, and roast for about 45 minutes, until vegetables looked charred. Squeeze the garlic heads until all meat is forced out of its skin. Place all roasted vegetables, plus the second set of ingredients, in a wide heavy pot. Bring to a boil. Reduce the flame to medium, covered and cook 30 minutes. Add the pepper. Cream in a blender or food processor, or with an immersion blender until perfectly smooth. Add ground pepper to taste.  Adjust seasonings and consistency (add a little water if it looks too thick). Serve hot. Delicious cold too. Makes 12 ample servings

CIDER ROASTED CAPON WITH ROOT VEGETABLES

1 capon, 8 to 10 pounds

triple thickness cheesecloth .

4 cups unfiltered apple cider.

4 tablespoons juniper berries (health food stores), slightly crushed with a rolling pin.

1 tablespoon coarsely ground black pepper.

4 sprigs  rosemary.

6 to 8 bay leaves.

8 to ten whole cloves.

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Wash and dry capon thoroughly, removing neck, giblets, and liver and reserving them for another use. Place capon in deep heavy pan just large enough to hold it, breast side down. Cover top of turkey with cheesecloth. Mix all remaining ingredients in a bowl, and pour mixture over the capon, making sure you get the cheesecloth thoroughly moistened with the liquid. Bake 2 hours, pouring cooking liquid over cheesecloth every 1/2 hour. Remove cheesecloth, turn the capon over, breast side up. Bake another hour, or until all juices run clear. Remove capon and let stand 15 minutes before slicing. Transfer the liquids to a small pot and reduce to 2 1/2 cups. Strain into a small bowl, reserving 1/2 cup for the vegetables.  Slice the turkey and pour the strained gravy on top. Serve with the roasted root vegetables (recipe follows.