Set in Stone: Options for the Engagement Ring
The engagement ring involves the selection of its focal point -- the diamond -- with an understanding of cut, clarity, color, and carat size to inform your decision. But the next decision is one that will define the ring’s style – its setting. The cost of the setting can add anywhere from a couple of hundred to a few thousand dollars to the cost of the whole ring. It depends on which metal and style you select. You have choices of color – the whitish sheen to compliment the diamond’s clarity is available in platinum, the costliest choice, or in white gold. For a warmer look usually seen in gold, there are settings of yellow gold or even rosy hued red gold or a combination of gold and platinum shades. Check for 14K, as a higher content of gold is usually too soft for a ring and lower K number indicates the ring stints on the gold.. Then there is the question of style of setting. EngagementRing.htm
There are many options for ring settings, whether your taste
inclines to understated elegance, classic style, or bold design, there is an
engagement ring setting style to match it.
The setting refers to the
overall ring design including any side stones, engraving, or other decoration
along the band. But another term you
should know with respect to rings is mounting,
the part of the ring that includes only the central stone. You
want to be sure that both the setting and mounting are well-constructed to keep
your diamond securely in place. So you
should carefully look over the setting and ask where and how it was
constructed. Generally, settings
manufactured in the
Tiffany Settings
Cathedral Setting
Like the Tiffany Setting, the ring the Cathedral is set above a band, but there is a difference in the mounting. It arches when seen from the side (like the arches of a cathedral). To the left and right of the diamond, the band splits into two. On the bottom it meets to join and create the inside "band". On the top, it rises upwards to the diamond to give it an illusion of being set deeper into the ring.
Bar Setting
The bar setting is a variation on the prong setting. Rather than individual claws, prongs on each side of the setting are fused into elongated bars to hold the stone in place
A bezel is a metal band that wraps around a circular diamond to hold it in
place. The metal ring surrounds the diamond is called the collet. You may also see partial bezels which only
surround the sides of the stone. Bezels provide good protection for the stone and
are known for their durability. The metal can also accentuate a diamond, making
it look larger than it would in a prong setting. In contrast to the flush setting, which has
no collar surrounding the stone, the bezel is bolder and more noticeable. Bezels also provide a very smooth surface
unlikely to snag on hair or clothing. Partial
bezels only arc across a portion of the stone. Be certain that the setting is secure enough
to hold the stone without problems.
Tension settings are formed by the band of ring itself holding the stone in place, so that the diamond appears suspended in air. Tension engagement ring settings are quite expensive because they must be individually sized; the ring cannot be resized without losing the necessary strength to protect the stone. Some jewelers warn customers against this style of setting because, though it is intended to hold the stone securely, it is possible for the ring to be struck in such a way that it will loosen its grip on the stone, which may then be lost.
The setting is called invisible because the diamond is bound to the ring without immediately visible means. Typically, the setting involves a stable cup the stone can rest in; that cup is then attached to the band in a bypass or split design. The effect is similar to a tension setting but, unlike the tension setting, this style of ring could be resized if necessary.
More
intricate settings include the various forms of channel settings, pave
settings, bead settings, accented settings, and three stone settings.
Channel Settings
In a channel setting multiple diamonds are set flush into a channel within the ring band. . There are no individual prongs around each stone; instead, the metal lips keep the stones in place. Be sure to ascertain that it is the metal and not just glue, which can down the line lose its hold, securing the stones into place. This setting is most common with round and baguette shaped diamonds. Because the stones are inset, this is a very secure setting option, though it does not highlight the gems as elevated settings do.. This setting is generally sturdier than higher, more exposed designs and offers additional protection for the stones around the sides. Without elevated stones, the ring is less likely to snag on clothing
There are many different varieties of channel settings used in engagement rings, including:
This design coats the entire surface of the ring with gems,
each set into either a minute depression or secured with prongs that are
virtually undetectable. Unlike channel settings, which are within the ring and
show the rim of metal that secure the stones, pave settings have no rim around
each stone, which allows more light in, resulting in greater sparkle. While you may not be able to see them, you
should make sure that the depressions or prongs are there and that the diamonds
are not merely glued on. Glued on
diamonds can, and likely will, fall out, leaving obvious gaps in the ring. Due to the number of diamonds needed for such
a design, pave settings often cost more
than other settings.. A “full pave” ring has the diamonds all
around. A “half pave” only has diamond
on the part of the ring that shows outside the hand. A “full pave” ring has the pave setting
extending fully around the circumference of the ring. A “half pave” setting
only covers the top portion of the ring, which could be more comfortable,
especially when you find your fingers squeezed.
Bead Setting: similar to the pave setting with more intricate and decorative gold work.
Accented Settings: a traditional solitaire can be accented with smaller round, baguette or taper-baguette diamonds, or colored gemstones. The setting may also be accented by designs in the metal of filigree or lattice work.
Three-Stone Setting: Instead of a solitaire, three stone, meant to symbolize past, present and future, are mounted on the ring. The central stone is flanked by two other stones that may be diamonds or other gems and are usually somewhat smaller than the one in the middle. Of course, the cost of this setting rises substantially due to the additional investment of precious stones required.
Ring settings can also
incorporate a variety of elements. For
example, a bezel mounted solitaire could be embellished with scrolls on the
ring. A three-stone setting may feature
further enhancement with pave diamonds set around the band. A solitaire mounted in a cathedral setting
could also be accented by small diamonds channel set in the band.
The options you have available can be as
dazzling as the diamonds themselves, and perhaps somewhat dizzying, as well. If you really cannot make up you